Why go to Metz

I guess the title says it all, but let me justify my statement. I decided to visit the north-eastern French city of Metz in December when I was driving to Germany with the dog. The reasons? I had read good things about its Christmas market, and I was intrigued by the pictures of the Porte des Allemands medieval complex.

La Porte des Allemands © Alps2Coast

I discovered far more. Metz is simply a gem. So, let's see what makes it so unique, and one of Europe's most underrated cities.

• Its three-thousand-year history is reflected in its beautiful architecture. The city centre gravitates around a majestic Gothic cathedral.dedicated to Saint Stephen. It boasts fascinating churches (including the oldest church in France), leafy and elegant squares brimming with joie de vivre, a seductive city centre with hills and two rivers, elegant 17th-century mansions, ancient city gates and walls, fantastic museums, and futuristic contemporary buildings.

  
  

• Metz has applied for UNESCO-Heritage status for its historic centre, but that has not been granted yet. So, this is the best time to go and discover it, before the rest of the world does!

  
  

• The careful work of the long-sighted local administration has earned Metz the nickname of La Ville Verte ('The Green City'). The historic centre, framed by parks and dotted with trees, is one of France's largest pedestrianised areas. So, exploring Metz on foot is a pleasure!

  
  

• If you are into modern and contemporary art the Parisian Centre George Pompidou has a second site in Metz, housed in a spectacular building.

• The city presents itself as Eurométropole Metz, a reference to its geographical position and a complex history that saw it belonging to France and Gerrmany at different times. This international vocation, accentuated by the proximity to Luexmbourg, makes the atmosphere distinctive from quintessential French cities, and yet different from Germany's cities too.

  
  

• The Marché de Noël (Christmas market) is elegant, lively, and relaxed, with a real French Je ne sais quoi. I was there on the last Friday before Christmas and the visitors were mainly locals or French, which added to the sense of authenticity.

• At mealtimes, you will be spoiled for choice. From patisseries and cosy tea rooms to restaurants serving hearty Lorraine fare; from the stalls in the Marché Couvert (Covered Market), to the artisan produce on offer at the Marché de Noël (Christmas market), great quality food is easy to find in

Houses on the banks of the Moselle © Soroush Zargar/Unsplash

How to get there

How to get to Metz by train

Metz is only 85 minutes from Paris Gare de l'Est by regular high-speed train. With a connection in Paris, you can reach Metz easily from a number of European destinations.

• The journey from London to Metz takes 5 hours and 30 minutes, with an easy change of stations (you arrive in Gare du Nord and hop across to Gare del'Est, a 15-minute walk).

• Similarly, from Brussels you can reach Metz in just over 3 hours, changing trains and stations in Paris (you arrive in Gare du Nord and hop across to Gare del'Est).

• From Amsterdam you can get to Metz in 5 and a half hours, with the same changes as Brussels above

The cities below are also well connected with Metz, but you do not need to go via Paris:

• From Zurich, the journey takes between 4 and a half and 5 and a half hours, depending on connections.

• Metz is between 4 and 5 hours from Frankfurt, depending on connections (change in Strasbourg or Saarbrucken)

• Travel time from Geneva to Metz is around 6 hours - changing trains and stations in Paris.

• Munich is roughly 6 hours from Metz, changing in Strasbourg and Mannheim.

For planning and booking, check Trainline or RailEurope.

How to get to Metz by car

We drove from the UK because we had our dog with us. Metz is 5 hours from Calais, and easy to drive. It takes about the same time to get there from Dusseldorf, Munich and Amsterdam,

The drive from Brussels and Frankfurt is about 3 hours; from Zurich 4 hours, from Geneva 5 hours

A short history of Metz

The Romans founded Metz (Divodurum Mediomatricorum, then Mettis) at the confluence of the Moselle and the Seille rivers on the site of an earlier Celtic village. The Romans built a fortified military city there, with a theatre and a basilica. The Roman city was eventually destroyed, probably by Attila.

But Metz was soon reborn, and its importance grew. In the Dark Ages, after the death of King Clovis, Metz became the capital of the Merovingian kingdom of Austrasia, and later the birthplace of the Carolingian dynasty,

During the Middle Ages, Metz was one of the most prosperous cities in Lotharingia (Lorraine) and an important bishopric of the Holy Roman Empire. Its strategic position helped it become a centre of commerce and trade, and its cathedral, Saint-Étienne, became a renowned pilgrimage site.

Richly symbolical figure adorn Metz cathedral's © Alps2Coast

In the mid-13th century, A bourgeois revolution removed the bishop's power and Metz became a free city of the Holy Roman empire.

In the 16th century, Lorraine was annexed by France. In the 17th century, under Louis XV, the city was embellished and fortified. The Opéra, the most ancient opera theatre in France, dates from this era, as do many of the squares and churches we see today.

In the 1870's, following the Franco-Prussian War, the city was annexed to the German Empire, and although brief German rule had a significant impact on the city's architecture and culture. However, Metz was returned to France after World War I.

Heavily damaged by Allied bombings, many of its historic buildings were painstakingly restored. The most recent decades saw the construction of new civic landmarks, such as the Centre Pompidou-Metz and the Centre des Congrès Robert Schuman.

You must be starting to wonder how it all comes together, and what sights and experiences help you appreciate the unique charm of Metz. So let's take a look at an itinerary!

My two to three days Metz itinerary

My itinerary is for 2 full days in the city. I am assuming that it will take you about half a day to get to Metz and another half a day to travel back. So you should consider two days in total.

You can get a good feel for Metz in one day, thanks to the centre being compact and walkable, but you will probably have to give entry to the museums a miss.

Day 1 The cathedral and the Christmas market

Morning

You are likely to spend the morning travelling to Metz. so when you arrive check into your hotel and try some typical Lorraine food at the Marché Couvert (Covered Market).

The building is interesting in itself. Austerely beautiful, it used to be the residence of the bishop of Metz, and was converted into a market in the early 19th century. You can browse high-quality local produce, and some stalls double up as small restaurants where you can sit down and eat. It feels very authentic, with plenty of locals buying their cheeses and meets and baked goods there too.

Afternoon

The market is in a strategic position in the cathedral square, so you can easily go from feeding your body to feeding your soul!

If you have read some of my posts you know I have a passion for cathedrals, and Saint-Étienne (Saint Stephen) is a fantastic example of the Gothic style, all soaring arches, pointed vaults, and flying buttresses. 

On the site, there was a small shrine to Saint Stephen even in Roman times - according to legend, it was the only building in Roman Metz spared by Attila the Hun. There was certainly a church on the same site in the days of the Merovingians, which was enlarged and modified a number of times

The construction of the current building began in the late 13th century and was completed in the early 14th century. It is one of the largest Gothic cathedrals in Europe.

Even from the distance, it is remarkable, both for its majestic position on top of the Sainte-Croix hill, and the unique yellow limestone colour of its stone.

Metz Cathedral © Timotee Gidenne/Unsplash

As you approach it, you start noticing the detail. Its magnificent and intricate decoration. It feels like a forest of statues, a book in stone of Met'z history over the centuries.

The richly sculpted portal of the Virgin © Alps2Coast

The sense of wonder just grows as you step inside, to be welcomed by the largest collection of stained glass windows in Europe. Yet, it is not size that makes this religious space so special. It is their mesmerising beauty, the way they bathe the interior in a kaleidoscope of colors. They are the reason the cathedral of Metz was nicknamed "God's lantern."

Stepping into God's lantern © Alps2Coast

Many of the windows date back to the 13th and 14th centuries and depict biblical scenes, such as the "Tree of Jesse" and the "Life of Christ,." as well as saints, and historical events. Some of them were damaged in World War 2 and replaced by works in strikingly modern style by Jacques Villon and Marc Chagall.

Hermann Von Munster's 14th-century rose windows © Alps2Coast

Take your time inside, as watching the building change as the sun rises and descends feels nothing short of miraculous.

Different light, different mood © Alps2Coast

Depending on what time you arrive, you may be able to fit a visit to the Centre Pompidou on the 1st day. This contemporary art museum is housed in a striking, ship-like building designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban. The contrast with the cathedral is striking, but it helps you appreciate the complex soul of this city. This younger brother of the Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris showcases a diverse collection of modern and contemporary art and puts on temporary exhibitions too.

Centre Pompidou©Fredric LoBrutto/Unsplash

If you are in Metz between the 22nd of November and the 30th of December, the next stop should be the Christmas market. It is a magnificent affair, with fantastic food and wine and the opportunity to sample and buy local produce - we stocked up on delicacies for Christmas.

The market is spread across some of the most beautiful squares of the city centre, including Place d’Armes, where you can get on the ferries wheel for panoramic views of the city and to admire the sculptures and decorations hanging from the cathedral, the larger Place de la République, with a vast choice of food chalets and lovely views over the Moselle, and the delightful Place Saint Jacques, which proudly houses the stalls of local crafts and gastronomy producers, to the gorgeous medieval setting of Place Saint-Louis, whose 13th-century houses are artfully illuminated to reveal their slender facades and picturesque battlement, creating a beautiful atmosphere.

Even outside the market setting, the whole city comes alive with beautiful Christmas decorations, as you will discover on a stroll along the Moselle!

Christmas time on the Moselle © Alps2Coast

I want to add that the food and wine are real highlights of Metz's Christmas market. You get to try local Lorraine specialties, and alongside the traditional mulled wine you getto taste local Rieslings and Pinot Noirs, as well as Campagne.

If you are visiting at other times of the year, Place Saint-Jacques is a lively square with interesting cafes and restaurants, perfect for outdoor seating.

Day 2

Morning

If you could not fit it in on day one, start bright and early with a visit to the Centre Pompidou, Otherwise, I recommend starting Day 2 with an in-depth exploration of the heart of Metz, the Sainte Croix hill,

Lone medieval column on Sainte Croix © Alps2Coast

Your first port of call should be the Musée de la Cour d'Or. Its labyrinthine interior boasts a rich Gallo-Roman collection (a highlight is an altar to the God Mythras).

Its fascinating artifacts help you follow the history of the city of Metz and the wider Lorraine region through the centuries. Amongst the artifacts on display were the sculptures of the chancel of the Basilica of Saint Pierre aux Nonnains, possibly the most ancient surviving church in France.

I was also curious to see the building itself. It owes its name to the fact that it used to be the site of the Merovingian royal palace - in the days when Metz was the capital of Austrasia. Although I could not see any vestiges of the Merovingian palace, a surprise awaits you in the basement. You be entering what is left of Metz's Gallo-Roman baths!

The building feels a bit like a maze, and the reason is that it is made of the combination of 3 architectural structures: an ancient abbey, the city Chèvremont granary, and a church. The rooms are beautiful, with arches and pale stone really helping to bring the artifacts to life.

Before lunch, take some time to explore the area a but further. Walk around the perimeter of the museum and the granary tower, and then up to leafy Place Saiinte Jeanne of Arc, which is the elegant church of Sainte-Ségolène. Although only the crypt remains of the original Carolingian foundation, it is one of the most ancient religious churches in town, and the stained glass Crucifixion scene in the Virgin's chapel is the most ancient in Lorraine.

Recollets cloisters and herb garden © Alps2Coast

I also loved the Recollets cloisters, part of a medieval abbey in the heart of town, with beautifully tended herbs gardens. It is a haven of peace in an already very peaceful part of town, and you entered it through a gate made of repurposed Roman columns!

Afternoon

After lunch, as the sun begins its descent, it is a great time to look for the other building that tempted me to visit Metz, the Porte des Allemands (Gate of the Germans).

This fortified gate built by the Teutonic Knights in the 14th century was part of the city's defensive walls. Heavily damaged during World War II, it was later restored to its original state. Its impressive architecture is matched by a beautiful setting.

La Porte des Allemands © Alps2Coast

As you can see in the photo at the top of the article, The Gate sits on the Seille (the second river of Metz.

The Porte des Allemands is still connected to the city walls. We found a trail along the walls and the Seille, that we followed for a while, taking more photos of the Porte from the distance.

La Porte des Allemands © Alps2Coast

We were basically following the base of the Sainte Croix hill, admiring the mighty structures of the walls, with the emblems of the traders (Corporations') of the medieval city painted at intervals over it. The emblems are the reason the trail is called Chemin des Corporations. In medieval times each 'Corporation' was responsible for maintaining a portion of the walls to protect the city.

The walk is beautiful and peaceful. There are mainly dog walkers and joggers. You will eventually reach the spectacular point where the Seille and the Moselle meet, the reason for Metz's very existence.

From then on, it will be hard to choose where to look. Like a sleeping giant, the cathedral will be watching over you from the Sainte Croix hill on your left. On your right, you will have beautiful ancient houses on an island in the Moselle!

The island on the Moselle © Alps2Coast

Soon, to your right, you will have Place de la Comédie, where the theatre built under Louis XV, the most ancient opera house in France, is ready to welcome you. It was too late to visit when we arrived but it is definitely on my list for next time.

The intriguing frame of the Temple Neuf rise in front of you. Although quite recent by Met'z standards, it is a landmark from an important period of Metz history, when it was annexed to Germany (between 1870 and WW1), It is a magical building, its proximity to water adding to its obvious architectural charms.

The Temple Neuf © Alps2Coast

Just behind it, you’ll find the ‘Jardin de l'Amour (Garden of Love). It was beautiful in an austere way in winter, but I can imagine how wonderful it is on a warm summer day!

Another highlight you should try to visit, as it is quite close to Temple Neuf, is the Église Saint-Pierre-aux-Nonnains, which claims to be the most ancient in France (founded in 390 AD). The building first saw life as Roman baths, then was converted into a church, and in the 17th century it became a warehouse!

It was restored in the 1970's, becoming a cultural centre opened to the public. I tried to go on my last morning, only to discover that it was only open in the afternoon. So, I could not see it. Despite the funny opening times, it seems a wonderful complex to visit, so, unlike me, check in advance to make sure you can incorporate it into your itinerary.

Before of after dinner, take another stroll through the centre to discover more of the charms of Metz after dark. It was easy for us in December as the light set early, We walked along the Moselle in dusk, and then rejoined the Christmas market stalls in Place de la Republique and made our way back to Sainte Croix, to admire the moon and the Christmas lights brightening the cathedral.

Metz cathedral and Christmas lights © Alps2Coast

Day 3

Morning

Given my debacles with Saint-Pierre-aux-Nonnains, I went shopping for a long walk to revisit my favorite corners of the city centre, thinking about how soon I could return. I only discovered later about another attraction that I really would have loved to visit...

The Symbolist poet Paul Verlaine was born in Metz and you can visit his childhood home. If you love poetry, this could be a way to finish your stay and say goodbye to this unique city. His verses on the Metz countryside will resonate in your mind on the way back:

("Metz and its magnificent countryside, rivers with prolific waves...")

You can also explore one of the great city parks or the botanical gardens.

Afternoon

Time to catch your train back, or drive on!

Metz is one of France's and Europe's most underrated cities

I feel blessed to have visited Metz. I am already dreaming of returning for a spring break, discovering nature along the banks of its rivers right into the beautiful countryside that stole Verlaine's heart.

It is a city that surprises you and delights you. You keep wondering why it is not more famous abroad, and at the same time, you are grateful that you can explore it without the crowds. Go as soon as you can, ideally before the UNESCO-Heritage listing puts it firmly on the map.

If you have any questions about this post or itinerary, do get in touch using the contact form.

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