The spires of the cathedral © Kate Olfans/Unsplash
I am back from 3 days in Canterbury, and my first proper visit to the capital of the Anglo-Saxon kingdom of Kent blew me away.
Steeped in history and charm, Canterbury is also a very contemporary and lively city, with universities, independent stores and eateries, and a creative, unhurried vibe. It is also the starting point of the Via Francigena.
Why visit Canterbury?
I love going for a short break around the time of the spring equinox, and every year I try and choose a destination that seems like a good place to celebrate the arrival of longer days and nature's reawakening. This year, I had the added wish - shall I call it new year resolution? - to take my first steps on the Via Francigena. This ancient pilgrimage road from Canterbury to Rome (and Puglia) has always been on my bucket list and I wanted to try it out to see how I felt about it before committing to longer stretch.
Whether you fancy the idea of a once-in-a-lifetime walking trip or not, you will reap the benefits Canterbury's historic role as a pilgrimage departure point. It deepens the meaning of its incredible monuments, and contributes, in my opinion, to the layered but unhurried charm of this city.
If the idea of walking the Via Francigena is not your thing, here are 4 other reasons why the cathedral city of Canterbury should be on your travel bucket list:
Its incredibly well-preserved historic centre, with Roman, Anglo-Saxon, Norman, and Tudor monuments, including the UNESCO-Listed Canterbury cathedral
Its literary connections: Literature buffs will find themselves enthralled by Canterbury's link to Geoffrey Chaucer's "Canterbury Tales," with tours and attractions dedicated to the famed pilgrimage. The City is also the birthplace of the Renaissance dramatist Christopher Marlowe.
Its foodie scene: From charming tea shops to Michelin-starred restaurants, Canterbury caters to all palates. The proximity to the bountiful Kentish countryside means lovely fresh local produce will be on your plate.
Its natural charms: The river Stour runs through the city, and a delightful path runs along it. You can also take a leisurely punt (flat-bottomed boat) tour down the River Stour, to enjoy the city from the tranquillity of the water. Kent is known as the garden of England and the surrounding countryside is beautiful.
Its dog-friendliness. Cities can be quite difficult to navigate with dogs. Canterbury's historical centre seems perfectly suited to dogs - not too busy, with an abundance of green spots for walking in your dogs, and dog-friendly eateries.
The cobbled streets of Canterbury © Alps2Coast
Getting there
It is very easy to reach Canterbury from London, and also from abroad! Trains take 1 hour from from London St Pancras - the same station the Eurostar arrives into. So if you are coming from Paris, Amsterdam, Brussels, or Western Germany, consider Canterbury for a quintessential British weekend with a very different vibe from London.
To plan your journey from St Pancras or Victoria to London, check the Trainline.
My 3-day itinerary
Day 1 - Canterbury's city centre and the Cathedral
We arrived around lunchtime. As we pushed the door of our hotel, we lifted our head to and noticed one of the towers of what could only be Canterbury cathedral, majestically rising above the roofs of the historic centre, at the end of out street. It felt like she was welcoming us to her city, and inviting us to visit.
Which is exactly what we did, after check-in and a bite to eat in the newly opened independent cafe downstairs.
The back of the cathedral © Alps2Coast
Founded in 597 AD by St Augustine, Canterbury's is one of the oldest Christian structures and arguably the most important cathedral in England.
As the seat of the Archbishop of Canterbury, the spiritual leader of the Church of England, the cathedral could be called the St Peter's of the Anglican faith. But with its rich and complex history the cathedral is significant for the Catholic church as well. One of the defining events of medieval church history, the brutal murder of Archbishop Thomas Becket, took place within its walls, and transformed the building almost overnight into a major pilgrimage site, attracting pilgrims from across Europe for centuries. The characters of Chaucer's Canterbury Tales, one of the early masterpieces of literature in English, are on such a pilgrimage.
Like other medieval cathedrals, Canterbury suffered several destructions by fire and was rebuilt multiple times, so a visit is a walk through the layers of history, and I was looking forward to peel off those layers during my visit.
Of course, we needed to plan for a visit with a dog. Well-behaved pets are accepted in the cathedral, but for our sake and that of other visitors we felt it was better to take turns going inside, so we could appreciate the beauty, history and spirituality of the interior without interference. This worked very well, because the exterior of the cathedral is as interesting as the interior.
The precinct of the cathedral is free to visit, and dog-friendly, and it allows a great opportunity to appreciate the architectural complexity of the cathedral, which despite the various styles and additions manages to remain harmonious.
As you enter the precinct through a medieval gate, you are immediately faced with the awe-inspiring 72-metre-tall "Bell Harry Tower.'
Harry Bell Tower © Nishesh Jaiswal/Unsplash
Like all medieval cathedrals, Canterbury is a book in stone, so I started by inspecting the figures on the portal -angels, gargoyles, biblical figures, archbishops and kings. Although it made sense given her role as head of the Anglican church, I was surprised to find a recent sculpture of Queen Elizabeth II next to her Tudor predecessor!
The medieval statuary is magnificent, but I have do say I was more fascinated by the architectural features. The building feels like an accordion, or a flower, that opens and closes, at times in unexpected. The video below gives you a partial idea of the complexity of just one side of the building!
Walking along the length of the cathedral I reached the back where you can see the ruins of an Infirmary destroyed by Henry VIII, when he ordered the destruction of the monastery attached to the cathedral. You then enter a fascinating section with courtyards and arched alleyways. There is of course a herb garden, and a Water Tower, a Romanesque where water carried from a nearby river was stored for the monk' use.
The herbs garden © Alps2Coast
Following one of the alleyways to the end you reach the square at back of the cathedral, a splendid photo spot where in spring trees in bloom are framed by the outline of the cathedral.
Springtime Canterbury © Alps2Coast
On the opposite side of the square is the King's School, the prestigious school attached to the cathedral that had the dramatist Marlowe amongst its pupil. Exiting the precinct through another medieval gate, I made my way back to the Harry Bell Tower, to hand the dog over to my husband.
I started by visiting the cloisters to the side of the cathedral, with their magnificent ceilings, slender gothic arches, and stained glass windows. I realised the place promised to be pretty special, and stepped into the main building of the church.
The cloisters © Alps2Coast
If the exterior felt magical, the interior of Canterbury cathedral truly blew me away.
The soaring nave with its pointed arches, ribbed vaults, and stained glass windows felt like a perfect specimen of Gothic architecture, light-filled, elegant yet majestic. The stained glass windows, including the12th-century "Miracle Windows" showcase stories from the life of Christ, are considered the richest collection of its kind in England and are one of the reasons the cathedral has been added to the UNESCO-Heritage list.
The nave © Alps2Coast
In the middle of nave rises a structure that feels like a church within the church, drawing the eye and giving the interior the impression of a treasure chest, holding surprises - shall I say revelations? - for the visitor.
The structure turned out to be the Quire - the section of the cathedral, where the choir sings, features exquisite 14th-century stonework and ornate stalls.
The gateway to the Quire © Alps2Coast
To the side of the Quire are steps leading down. Before you enter the crypt proper, you are faced with a plaque marking the sport where Thomas Becket was murdered (the Martyrdom). But the sadness is short lived, wiped out by the beauty and spirituality of the place.
The cathedral underwent a a significant reconstruction in the 11th century, under the Norman Archbishop Lanfranc and his successor, the archbishop and philosopher St Anselm of Aosta. The crypt dates from this period and is incredibly atmospheric.
Photos are not allowed, so you will have to visit to form your own impression. A number of side chapels, all with their own unique character and history, open like flower petals around the core of the crypt. One of those, dedicated to the archangel Gabriel, has retained parts of magnificent 12th century frescoes, who made me think of an early English Giotto.
A flight of stairs leads to an upper floor, where you'll find the magnificent Trinity Chapel. Tombs of royals such as the Black Prince, saints, and benefactors of the cathedral are carefully placed there.. In the middle, a permanently lit candle acts as the Shrine of Thomas Becket. The candle burns in the spot where his tomb -destroyed by Henry VIII - used to be.
A fascinating side chapel is dedicated to St Anselm, and I stopped there at the end of my visit. Since 2006, the medieval chapel has a new modern altar. In green Aosta marble, it was donated by his Italian region of origin. Aosta, his hometown, is also a stop on the Via Francigena, and I love to think it is the halfway point. Born in Aosta, dead in in Canterbury. In Anselm's life path, the northern half of the pilgrimage way seems to have gone full circle. Thoughts of the Via Francigena reminded it was time to leave the peace of the church. We had a final walk around the precinct at sunset, then headed to the hotel to prepare for tomorrow's walk.
Canterbury has an incredible selection of top-rated dog-friendly pubs, and our dinner at the White Heart was as truly 'hearty' - delicious lovingly-cooked food.
Day 2 - First steps on the Via Francigena
We had a busy day ahead walking the first stretch of our walk.
The Via Francigena is an ancient pilgrimage route that stretches all the way from Canterbury Cathedral to Rome via France. The name itself translates to "the road that comes from France" in Italian, however, Canterbury in England is now recognized as the official starting point.
We dressed in hiking gear and prepared backpacks with snacks and water for ourselves and the dog, as you never know when you'll be hungry and how far you are from a village or a pub at that point.
The Via Francigena begins in the precinct of Canterbury cathedral, reaches and walks alongside the ruins of St Augustine's Abbey, once an important Benedictine monastery, founded in 598 AD by St. Augustine as he took his first steps towards re-establishing Christianity in southern England.
The abbey is included in the UNESCO Heritage list together with the cathedral and the ancient church of St Martins. It initially served as a place of worship and burial ground for Anglo-Saxon kings and the Archbishops of Canterbury. It was initially three churches in a row, dedicated to St Peter and St Paul, St Mary, and St Pancras. Following Viking raids in the 10th century, it was rebuilt and dedicated to St Augustine and it flourished as a prominent centre of learning, attracting monks and scholars from across Europe.
Sadly, during his dissolution of the monasteries, Henry VIII ordered the buildings stripped of their valuables and they slowly fell into ruin. I don't think I have ever detested Henry VIII as much as I did in Canterbury, realising all the magnificent art that he destroyed!
While not much is left of the grandeur of old, the abbey is still a wonderful place to visit. The ruins are surrounded by manicured lawns, and some surviving section allow you at least to imagine its past magnificence: the impressive Abbot Fyndon's Great Gate, some remnants of the abbey church, and the foundations of various monastic buildings.
The on-site museum delves deeper into the abbey's history with informative displays and artifacts unearthed from the site.
We left the abbey and began to follow the signs for the Via Francigena. The English stretch of the Via Francigena, from Canterbury to Dover, is a relatively short but charming portion of the route, a=so it makes for a great taster to decide if you like this kind of travel.
A typical view along the Via Francigena © Alps2Coast
The terrain is mostly gentle, following rolling hills and traversing the scenic Kent Downs, so we knew from reading other travellers tales that the walk is quite easy and could be accomplished in a day. However, we wanted to enjoy the views, and also to return to Canterbury, which we wanted to keep as our base, so we decided to hike to Shepherswell (roughly 17km) then catch a train back to Canterbury. The next day we would caught the train from Canterbury to Shepherdswell and finished the walk.
The path was very well signposted, and that made for a very enjoyable journey between rolling hills, with pretty villages and a patchwork of grassland, cultivated fields, and wooden areas. We ended up picnicing in one of those, and then reached Sheperdswell where we easily found the station.
I found the experience of travelling on foot fantastic, it helped me think, reconnect with myself and shake off some mental 'rust' from every day life.
As the walk wasn't too strenuous, on the way back we still had the energy to explore Westgate Towers and Gardens. The towers are the largest surviving medieval gateway in England, so imposing you would be forgiven for mistaking them for a castle! They watch mightily over the delightful riverside Westgate Gardens, that follow the river Stour almost all the way to the Norman castle ruins. I am sure it is delightful at all times of the year, buts its grounds scattered with remains of the city walls were made magical by the trees were in bloom.
Westgate Gardens and Westgate Towers © Alps2Coast
We finished our evening with a walk on the high street, that led us to another discovery. Canterbury even has a canal, with a dog-friendly pub next to it. What more can you ask for?
The canal next to the Weavers Pub © Zoltan Tosi
Day 3. Last morning in Canterbury and the road to Dover
The plan for the next day was to take a last stroll through Canterbury, revisit the cathedral precinct, pop inside, and then catch the train to Sheperdswell to finish the last leg of the walk (12 km) to Dover.
I forgot to mention earlier that your entry ticket to the cathedral is valid for a year from the day of purchase, which is great because you can pop in multiple times during your stay in Canterbury. I loved it just as much as on the first day, and when I entered I immediately notice the difference that the weather can make to the experience of a cathedral. It was a sunny day and light was streaming through the windows.
Before leaving Canterbury, I wanted to see another building listed in the UNESCO Heritage 'trio' with the Cathedral and Saint Augustine's -St Martin's, the oldest church in the English-speaking world that is still in use.
It is a small church and I had glimpsed its frame it the day before as we set off for St Augustine. Sadly, it only opens at 11 in the morning so we could not visit, but it gives one more reason to return. It is the building where Queen Bertha, the Frankish princess who had married the pagan King of Kent and welcome St Augustine to Canterbury used to pray, and where he based his first mission until King Ethelbert granted him the land for the Abbey and the Cathedral. I like leaving something unseen on my trips so I have an excuse to go back, but if you go maybe try and be more organised than me and check opening times in advance!
We also did not have time to visit the Canterbury Roman Museum, which sounds incredibly interesting. It displays the remnants of Roman Canterbury unearthed after World War II bombings. The museum was built over the site of a Roman townhouse and boasts one of the UK's only remaining Roman pavement mosaics found in its original location. In addition, many artifacts found during excavations in the city (pottery, coins, tools, and personal items) are on display, and the Roman townhouse has been recreated, to give visitors the feeling of walking through the rooms of an elegant Roman home. This is also on the list for my next visit.
After leaving the cathedral, we then took a last stroll around the centre, taking in the cobbled streets and medieval and Tudor houses one more time, before checking out, getting our backpacks and setting off for Shephersdwell from Canterbury East station.
We found the path we had left the day before, but struggled a bit more to follow signs. We realised afterwards that there is only a partial overlap between the North Downs Way and the Via Francigena.
As we never found the Via Francigena Variante, we kept to the North Downs Way, which felt a bit longer than websites and Google Maps said. It was still very manageable and the sunshine made for a lovely half-day of hiking. We also met some French pilgrims and walked some of the path together, following the old Roman road all the way to Dover!
My impressions of Canterbury and England's Via Francigena
Canterbury offers something for everyone: history buffs, literature lovers, foodies, those seeking a picturesque escape, pilgrims, and slow travel lovers. With its captivating charm, stunning architecture, fantastic countryside, and welcoming friendly locals, Canterbury really stole my heart, I can’t wait to go back, and I am glad I have some excuses to do so, and a free ticket to the cathedral for next time!
Would I continue walking the Via Francigena? Yes! On the way, I kept looking at maps and thinking of ways of breaking into manageable chunks.
Did you enjoy my account of my weekend in Canterbury. I blog regularly about slow travel through Europe. For more inspiration, check out my blog.
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