Making the most of a Parisian train connection
If you are planning to start exploring Europe by train there is a strong chance that one of your journeys will require a change of train (and station) in Paris.
I have heard quite a few people citing a change of station in Paris as a reason to catch a flight instead of a train, especially if they are weighing the pros and cons of a flightless long weekend in Europe. The concern is understandable, especially if your journey requires a change from Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon. One day, I decided to try. It was a revelation. What seems like an obstacle is actually an opportunity!
A view of Notre Dame and the Seine ©Wix
Parisian train stations
Paris has a number of train stations. If you arrive from southern Europe you will get off at Gare de Lyon; if you arrive from the UK, the Netherlands or Belgium your journey will end at Gare du Nord; if you are coming from Germany you will disembark at either Gare de l'Est or Gare du Nord. To keep their neutrality, Swiss travellers may find themselves in either of the three stations!
While getting from Gare du Nord to Gare de l'Est is very quick - the two stations are a 20-minute walk from each other, or you can get the metro for one stop, getting from Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon takes one hour on foot, and about 25 minutes by metro or RER.
The entrance to Gare du Nord © Paul Fleury/Unsplash
Turn a station change into a mini-stopover
Let me start by admitting that I am quite risk averse, and I have experienced French strikes in all their might. So the idea of crossing Paris to change station was making me very nervous.
I also deeply love Paris, and grab every opportunity to immerse myself in it. I suppose that is what gave me the idea of stretching the stopover. Instead of factoring one hour for going from Gare Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon or viceversa, I factor 4 hours for a day time trip, and an overnight if I travel from London to Paris in the evening.
I also realised that if you travel light, with a either a backpack or hand luggage, you can actually walk the distance! I did that last year and it was very enjoyable!
What can you see if travelling between Gare du Nord and Gare de Lyon?
So, here are my tried and tested recommendations for making the most of Paris while travelling between Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon or viceversa:
1)Wander around the Marais and Place des Vosges.
If you are walking from Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon, the Marais is actually en route! You just need to follow signs for Marais or Place de Vosges and turn in. The romantic perfectly symmetric Place des Vosges is the oldest square of Paris today.
On a road nearby (Rue Montmorency) you'll find the house of Nicolas Flamel, the oldest house in Paris - now a Michelin restaurant.
The area is dotted with elegant white stone 17th century mansions, some of which are now listed monuments. During the ages, became the homes of French personalities such as Balzac, Victor Hugo, and Colette.
A view of Place des Vosges © Beanit Woman/Pixabay
Place de Vosges and the Marais in general are very characterful without being overwhelmed with tourists like the islands or the Champs-Élysées. They also great spots for lunch or a drink, so if your train brings you to Paris in the morning, extend your stopover and enjoy this delightful part of Paris!
2) Indulge yourself with lunch or a drink at Le Train Bleu
If you feel like a special treat, work out an appetite by walking to Gare de Lyon and book yourself for lunch at the recently re-opened iconic restaurant Le Train Bleu at Gare de Lyon.
This majestic establishment all chandeliers and luxury furnishings has a blue theme in the decor as well as the name, a nudge to the 'blue' train line taking Parisians to the Mediterranean and the Cote d'Azur.
3) People watch in the Tuileries Gardens.
These formal gardens between the Louvre and Place de la Concorde always have a festive atmosphere and are a great place to relax, stroll, or have a light meal.
Landscaped by Louis XIV's gardener, they were the gardens of a royal palace loved by Napoleon as well, and later destroyed by revolutionary forces in 1871.
A detail of the Jardin des Tuileries © Larry RW Apy/Unsplash
4) Do a loop: cross the Seine and enjoy the vibe of the Rive Gauche
This quick tour also allows you to admire the stunning views of Notre Dame from Pont des Arts, walk along the vibrant Rive Gauche, an artists hangout since the glory days of Hemingway and Sartre.
Saint Germain, the most ancient church in Paris, is also there. Cross the Seine again at Pont de Sully or Pont d'Austerlitz to head to Gare de Lyon.
5) Visit the Musée Carnavalet
The Carnavalet is another option if you decide to spend your stopover in the Marias. Dedicated to the history of Paris. Entry to the Carnavalet is free and there is no need to book.
6) Visit the Musée Picasso
The Picasso Museum is housed in one of the grand mansions of the Marais. Factor in a couple of hours for a proper visit. It is well-worth it!
7) Eat and drink like Marie Antoinette
Paris can treat you to experiences that are a blend of sophistication and joye de vivre. I am quite partial to biting into a few macarons while sipping champagne at Ladurée or Pierre Hermé (various locations).
The iconic Laduree green branding © Siret K./Unsplash
8) Island-hopping
We tend to forget that Paris was initially an island settlement, built on the 2 river islands now called Ile de Notre Dame and Ile de Saint Louis. A stopover gives you the perfect opportunity to zoom in and explore this riverine side of the City of Lights. Wander around the Ile de Notre Dame, explore the magnificent cathedral if there is time, and cross over into Ile de Saint Louis, with its quaint shops and restaurants, maybe finishing with an ice cream at iconic Berthillon.
If you are travelling in low season, you may be able to step into Notre Dame without queuing and maybe even without the crowds. I once visited in January and was virtually the only person there!
9) Have a memorable lunch in a historical brasserie
Bofinger in the Bastille area has been serving customers since 1864. Balzar by the Sorbonne was a favourite of Sartre and Camus. Both are memorable experiences!
Brasserie Balzar © Guillaume Didelet/Unsplash
10) Soak in the atmosphere of Canal Saint Martin
A 4.5 km canal dug up on Napoleon's orders, and the setting for some famous Georges Simenon's novels, nowadays the Canal Saint Martin, which starts from Place de la Bastille flowing northward through working class areas punctuated with locks and Venetian-style footbridges, is where real Parisians hang out.
Have a drink or something to eat in a retro bistros, sample vegetarian, vegan or ethnic food in one of the many colourful eateries, or simply sit by the canal banks, watching the boats go by.
A stretch of the Canal Saint Martin © Vince Duque/Unsplash
A change of station in Paris does not have to feel painful. It can be an amazing break within your break.
Turn your change of station into a Parisian experience
There are many itineraries you can design to travel between the two stations. Maybe start by thinking of landmarks or experiences on your bucket list and book your journeys around those.
If you have any questions reading this post, do get in touch through the contact form.
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