The aroma of roasted chestnuts mellows autumn evenings under covered walkways, a brisk winter walk around the city centre prepares you for exquisite yet hearty food, the early spring tempts you into sightseeing in earnest, and you may catch a breeze atop a medieval tower on a hot summer day.
Do you need a destination that is both a foodie paradise, a historical gem, and still able to surprise you? Bologna really offers something for everyone, and it is great in all seasons.
It is also incredibly easy to reach from virtually everywhere in Italy, as well as from across the Alps.
 A view of Piazza Maggiore © Oleksandr Kinshov/Unsplash
Why Go to Bologna?
Italians call Bologna 'la grassa' ( 'the fat one'), and it is actually a compliment. Bolognese food is considered the best in Italy. But there is so much more to Bologna than the delicious aromas of tagliatelle al ragù and tortellini, wafting its trattorias, or the delights of its food markets and food stores.
One of the most important cities of medieval Italy, Bologna is the proud seat of Europe's oldest university.
It boats remarkable landmarks from the middle ages, such as the iconic Due Torri ('Two Towers'), the vast Piazza Maggiore flanked by both religious and civic buildings, including the imposing unfinished Basilica of San Petronio. Further afield is the elegant gothic masterpiece of San Francesco.
Torre degli Asinelli from Porta Maggiore © Petr Slovacek/Unsplash
Bologna still has traces of its Roman origin. Piazza Maggiore is built over the Roman Forum (you can see some excavations inside Palazzo d'Accursio), and the nearby church complex of Santo Stefano has a late Roman origin. You will also see remnants of the Roman aqueduct - between the train station and the Montagnola park.
Bologna also boasts a distinctive network of portici, 'covered walkways.' which made the UNESCO World Heritage list. A tour of the portici is a walk in time through the history of Bologna, as they range from the medieval era to the 19th century.
While the city walls have been demolished, the old city gates are still standing and help you re-imagine the 'old' city centre. Similarly, the canals, that used to be such an important feature of the cityscape until world war 2, are still visible in a few spots, Bologna is no Venice, but they are one of the city's hidden gems - literally!
The city also has fantastic museums, including, to name a few, the Museo Medievale, the Museo Archeologico and the Museo d'Arte Moderna
Fun fact, Michelangelo worked in Bologna in his early years, and some of his earliest works are in the church of San Domenico!
To the university Bologna owes its other nickname is 'la dotta' (the educated one'). With the university comes a large student population, so you can expect vibrant nightlife and innovation, both in the arts and technology.
To top it all up, Bologna has great train connections to the rest of Emilia-Romagna if you fancy a day trip!
Getting There
Bologna is the main train hub in Italy, so getting there by train from other European countries is easy. If you are travelling from France or Switzerland you just change in Milano. There are frequent fast trains (Trenitalia Frecciarossa and Italo) as well as the slower Regionale.
The night trains from Vienna and Munich also stop there.
If you are already in Italy, Bologna is just across the Apennines from Florence, and extremely well connected with Venice, Verona, Rome, Naples, and Puglia, to name a few.
As a rule of thumb, Regionale (slow) trains roughly takes double the time of fast trains. If you are coming from Florence, though, I recommend the slow service as the news are fantastic.
The fountain at the base of the Montagnola, close to the aqueduct Oleksandr Kinshov/Unsplash
Now let's look at a detailed itinerary to make the the most of your 3 days in Bologna.
My Bologna 3-day walking itinerary
It is very easy to move around in Bologna, the centre is compact and you really only need buses if your accommodation is further afield. So if you can stick to the most sustainable of all forms of transport - your own legs and feet!
All the religious buildings listed in my itinerary are free to visit. You will be charged to visit museums, and if you are planning to visit a few, I strongly recommend buying the Bologna Welcome card, which gives you free access to the ones featured in my post.
Day 1: Piazza Maggiore and the Due Torri - the heart of Bologna
I am basing my itinerary on the assumption that you will arrive by mid morning. If you arrive later you will need to tweak it. I am also assuming your hotel is in the centre, so you can just take a quick detour to drop off your bags.
Morning
If you are coming from the station, you will cross Piazza Medaglie d'Oro and head in the direction of Via Indipendenza. To your left will be porta Galliera, one of the surviving city gates, and the ruins of the Rocca Galliera, followed by the Montagnola gardens. To your right will be the first of the many Bologna portici you will encounter, those of Via Indipendenza, considered Bologna's main street.
The walk to Piazza Maggiore takes about 20 minutes, but you will want to stop in one of the pasticcerie on Via Indipendenza if you haven't had breakfast!
You'll know when you reach Piazza Maggiore. You'll hit a busy intersection, and as you turn left before crossing, you will catch the first glimpse of the Due Torri at the end of Via Rizzoli. More on those later!
The entrance to Piazza Maggiore © Bianca Ackermann/Unsplash
Piazza Maggiore is waiting for you on the other side of the road. The first thing you'll notice is probably the 16th century Fontana del Nettuno.
Fontana del Nettuno © Tomas Martinez/Unsplash
But the fountain is just one of the many features populating this vast urban space. Piazza Maggiore, once the heart of Roman Bologna, is still the heart of the modern city, and fascinating buildings frame it on all sides and also occupy its centre.
Opposite Via Indipendenza is the Salaborsa, the former stock exchange converted into a multimedia library. Step in and head to the lower ground floor. Under the floor's glass panels, you will see some excavations of Roman Bologna. Salaborsa is part of the lavish Renaissance Palazzo d'Accursio complex, which is also the seat of the city government.
On the other side of the Neptune fountain, in the middle of the Square is the Palazzo Re Enzo:Â A 13th-century medieval fortress, once a prison for King Enzo, the son of the Holy Roman emperor Frederick II. The courtyard is always open to the public, and incredibly atmospheric. Here the captive prince - one of the first poets in the Italian language - used to write of his longing for his freedom and his life in southern Italy, and of his love for Bolognese women.
Palazzo di Re Enzo in Piazza Maggiore © Oleksandr Kinshov/Unsplash
At the far end of the Piazza stands the unmistakable frame of the Basilica di San Petronio, the impressive unfinished Gothic basilica, which is the religious centre of the city and one of its most remarkable architectural achievements.
San Petronio, Bologna's unfinished cathedral, framed by Renaissance portici © Bianca Ackermann/Unsplash
Construction began in 1390, and legend has it that the Bolognesi harboured a secret ambition to build a church larger than Saint Peter's. An envious Pope Pius IV intervened to halt its construction and destine the remaining funds to the building of the nearby Archiginnnasio.
Whilst it did not beat Saint Peter's, San Petronio can still boast some records: it is the largest brick church in the world in the Gothic style and its church interior is the 6th largest in Europe.
The facade is unfinished, which in itself makes the building remarkable, the darkness of the exposed bricks of the upper half contrasting with the white and pink marble of the lower part. The main portal, decorated by sculptor Jacopo della Quercia, considered a precursor of Michelangelo, is particularly beautiful.
The stunning main portal of the cathedral © Arno Senoner/Unsplash
In the vast interior you will find the soaring ceilings and elegant stained glass windows typical of gothic architecture, but one of my favourite features is on the floor. In the 17th century the leading astronomer Giovanni Domenico Cassini had a meridian line embedded in the church floor. This line he used to prove Kepler's heliocentric theory, a first achievement in a distinguished career that culminated in remarkable discoveries about Saturn's moons and rings, the Red Spot on Jupiter and the first estimates of the size of the solar system - and in a job as Louis XIV's astronomer and astrologer.
By now it may be time for lunch, and I recommend you delve into the medieval roads to the left of San Petronio, known collectively as the Quadrilatero. The alleyways in this part of the city are a journey back to the middle ages - each street carries the name of a specific trade, from jewel-makers to fishmongers, and here you will find some of Bologna's most delicious food. Indulge in a delicious lunch of traditional Bolognese cuisine at a nearby trattoria.
Try not to make the lunch too substantial if you want to climb the highest of the two towers, the Torre degli Asinelli.
Afternoon
From the 11th to 13th centuries, wealthy Bolognese families built towers as a display of their social status, and there was a real forest of them = over 200 towers within its city walls. The height and grandeur of a tower were perceived as proof of family prestige. They also served practical purposes: they provided a vantage point to spot incoming enemies, were used as defensive structures at siege time, and to relay messages, be it with flags, smoke signals, or even bells.
Over the centuries, many towers were destroyed due to earthquakes, neglect, or deliberate demolition, but the Asinelli and Garisenda Towers survived, and under the name of Due Torri are now synonymous with the city itself, and its glorious medieval past,.
The towers ©Bianca Ackermann/Unsplash
Built in the 12th century by the Garisenda family, the Garisenda tower is leaning, and may have been leaning since its construction. Its height was reduced in the 14th century to avoid collapse. Whilst it is not open to the public, Bologna's own leaning tower is a fascinating example of medieval engineering.
Its twin, the Torre degli Asinelli, was built around the same time, and was later was taken over by the Asinelli family. Â Considered the tallest medieval tower in Italy at 97.2 meters, you can climb its nearly 500 steps all the way to the top. It is hard work but I strongly recommend it, it offers incredible views of the city.
The main thoroughfare that takes you from Piazza Maggiore to the Due Torri is part of the ancient Roman road through the centre of Bologna, and you can continue to follow it all the way to the grand Porta Maggiore.
En route, make sure you stop by the gothic church of Santa Maria dei Servi, adjoined by an atmospheric four-sided portico, and step in to admire Cimabue's Madonna.
On the way back, take a slight detour to the 14th-century Palazzo della Mercanzia, with its elegant marble balcony and Gothic arches. It is still the seat of the Bologna Chamber of Commerce!
Loggia della Mercanzia ©Arno Senoner/Unspash
Depending on where your accommodation is, at this point you may either fancy retracing your steps towards Piazza Maggiore.
If you fancy a museum, I strongly recommend the Museo Civico Archeologico di Bologna (Archaeological Civic Museum of Bologna), which offers insights into the history of the area. It has an area dedicated to the Villanovan culture, that preceded the Etruscans in the area, a fascinating Etruscan section (Bologna was Etruscan before the Romans arrived, and a rich Roman collection of sculptures, mosaics, and everyday items.
There are also ancient Egyptian artifacts and mummies, and a section dedicated to the early Christian and Medieval periods, showcasing sculptures, religious objects, and archaeological finds from Bologna's rich history during these eras.
The peaceful courtyards of the Archiginnasio © Sterlinglanier Lanier/Unsplash
The museum is not huge, so you may be able to hop into the Archiginnasio, former seat of the university. If you are tired just fit it into the next day's programme, but do not skip it. I did not bother going in for a couple of years when I was studying in the city and I truly should have.
Built in a hurry with money taken from the San Petronio budget, the Archiginnasio building is a pristine example of Renaissance architecture, with a symmetrical facade and two delightful courtyards.
The interior is no less attractive. Sadly you will need a research justification or university pass to get into the library, which is a treasure trove of manuscripts and ancient books. But you can visit the fascinating horseshoe-shaped 17th century Teatro Anatomico ('Anatomical Theatre'), which served as a venue for public anatomy dissections, a crucial aspect of medical education during that era. In high season or at weekends, make sure you book in advance.
Another remarkable feature are the walls and ceilings of the main courtyard and the upper loggia, frescoed with the of coasts of arms of the students who graduated at Bologna University between the 16th and 18th centuries.
You may be spent by this point, so finish the day with an aperitivo in the Quadrilatero or closer to your accommodation. And on at least one of the two evenings, treat yourself to a meal in a classic osteria, to try hearty Bolognese food at its absolute best!
Day 2: Time travels and art
Morning
When I was studying in Bologna, many of my classes where taking place around the corner from Santo Stefano, so I visited often.
Afternoon light over the portici in front of Santo Stefano © Ryan Ladd/Unsplash
It overlooks an intriguing triangular city square, and it is surrounded by small peaceful gardens with cypress trees, it exudes a Roman or Byzantine aura - it reminded me of the churches in Ravenna. Often, in winter, I had the place to myself, and I was grateful.
Santo Stefano is not a single church, it is a collection of interconnected religious buildings, dating from different eras, and is referred to as "Sette Chiese" (Seven Churches) by the locals. It is also a fundamental part of Bologna's history, on some level as significant to the city's identity as Piazza Maggiore. It is here, for example, that the relics of San Petronio, the patron saint of the city, where kept for centuries - they were only moved to the Basilica of San Petronio 2 decades ago. There is a reason they were kept here. In the 5th century, during his lifetime, Bishop Petronius built the first church of the Santo Stefano complex, on the ruins of a Roman temple.
The buildings are quite small, and the visit will feel like time travel through the history of Bologna. Â You will come across Baroque elements, the majority of the buildings are in Romanesque style, but parts of the complex are early Byzantine/late Roman. Some of the churches have bare stone walls, simple stone altars, traces of long faded frescoes on the walls and Roman mosaics on the floors, and the sudden brightness of marble sculpture.
There is a theory that the complex was an attempt by Saint Petronius to recreate the complex of religious buildings erected by Constantine in Jerusalem. The names of the churches give a sense of this ambition, and the complex's history. There are:
Church of the Saints Vitale and Agricola, the central church with a Romanesque facade and an octagonal dome, which was started in the 4th century and rebuilt in the 12th, and houses the relics of these important local saints in the connected Byzantine-style Martyrium.
The Martyrium, also known as Church of the Trinity faces the Pilatus CourHoly Garden (Cortile di Pilato) a courtyard, inspired by the courtyard where Pilatus condemned Jesus, completed with a marble basin where he could wash his hands of it.
The octagonal Church of the Holy Sepulchre, started in 5th century and inspired by the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, is where the body of Saint Petronius was kept. Most of the columns are Roman, repurposed from a pre-existing pagan temple
The Church of Saint Stephen or of the Holy Crucifix, of Lombard origin, dates back to the 8th century.
Delightful cloisters.
The facade of the Church of the Crucifix  © Arianna Baldi/Unsplash
The complex is so ....complex, and yet quite small, but do take your time and enjoy its rich layered history. After this mystical start to the day, it is time to plunge yourself into another of my favourite Bologna highlights. No Bologna itinerary is complete without a the tour of the Portici.
The portici are another kind of time travel. The earliest ones are medieval and attached to gothic buildings such as Casa Isolani, but the tradition of building them continued through the Renaissance and Baroque eras into the 19th century, and your guide will tell you all about them.
The Portico Pavaglione (also known as Portico Galvani), close to the Archiginnasio, is a favourite, as its Verona stone pvavement contains fossil shells.
Remarkable is also the Portico of the Banca d'Italia in Via Farini, whose frescoes are a visual history of Italy.
You may prefer to explore the portici on your own, especially if you are rushed for time. There is a helpful guide to the most important portici on the tourist office website. However, if you can join a guided tour it is better because they will provide you with so many insights about their history and you can ask questions.
After such a long and intense morning, you will want a hearty lunch - or a combination of light lunch and gelato in one of the many artisanal gelaterie.
Afternoon
After such a busy morning, you may fancy an easy afternoon, in which case I recommend some relaxed sightseeing in the university quarter, whose buildings include Renaissance gems such as Palazzo Ercolani (Political Science faculty) and Palazzo Malvezzi Campeggi (Law faculty), with a stop at Basilica di San Domenico, where the young Michelangelo honed his craft.
This 13th century church, now a blend of gothic and Renaissance styles, houses the body of Saint Dominic, the founder of the Dominican order, and boasts beautiful paintings by Filippino Lippi, Guercino and Ludovico Carracci.
The Arca di San Domenico ('Shrine of Saint Dominic'), which houses the saint's remains, is a masterpiece of Nicola Pisano. The young Michelangelo sculpted three small figures to adorn the shrine of the saint: an angel holding a candleholder, a kneeling Saint Petronius (Bologna's patron saint), and a small statuette of Saint Proculus. They are no David, but do showcase his talent for anatomy and expressive figures.
It seems impossible to even imagine it today, but until world war 2 Bologna was criss-crossed by 60km of canals! This network of waterways were crucial for the city's development from the 12th to the 16th centuries. They supplied water to the city, facilitated transport of goods, connected Bologna to nearby rivers, and even channelled water to power mills for grinding flour for bread and pasta!
Sadly only a few stretches remain visible today, and the most popular one is by
Via Piella. a mere 10-minute walk from the university quarter. In Via Piella you will -literally = find a window into Bologna's lost waterways - the finestrella ('little window') di Via Piella.
The view from the Finestrella © Daniel Sessler/Unsplash
After the obligatory photo of the Finestrella, you could rejoin via Indipendenza and head towards Via Ugo Bassi, where amongst the many beautiful shops you will find the Mercato delle Erbe, an enticing food covered market,
If you are into contemporary art, instead of visiting San Domenico after lunch head directly to Via Piella and from there to Mambo (Museo d'Arte Moderna di Bologna), a former bakery converted into a museum which focuses on Italian art from the post-World War II era to the present day, with a particular focus on experimental art forms and houses the Museo Morandi, a dedicated space showcasing the largest public collection of works by the Bolognese artist Giorgio Morandi, known for his still life paintings.
Day 3: Urban hiking and more art
Morning
During yesterday's tour of the Portici, you will have heard about the longest portico in Bologna, and in the world, the Portico di San Luca, a covered walkway leading from Porta Saragozza, one of the city gates, to the hilltop Sanctuary of San Luca.
Turning a corner © Grigorii Shcheglov/UnsplashÂ
You should not leave Bologna without attempting the climb. As it is quite steep at times, it can be demanding walk, so in summer I recommend going early in the day.
Built from the 17th century, the Portico di San Luca is 3.5 km long, and boasts 666 arches. It made it possible for pilgrims to reach the Sanctuary, which houses a miraculous Byzantine icon of the Virgin Mary and Child, from the city centre no matter the weather.Â
San Luca © Constantin Mutaf/Unsplash
Allegedly from Hagia Sophia in Constantinople, the icon arrived in Bologna in the 11th century, and quickly became an object of popular veneration. It's unclear exactly when the construction of the sanctuary began, but some sources point to a request made by a Bolognese woman to Pope Celestine III in 1193 for a new church on the Colle della Guardia hill, overlooking the city. The church was remodelled multiple times, and the current domed building date from the 17th century.
I love walks, and I love pilgrimages, and having the opportunity of embarking on this kind of experience in a busy city centre is quite unique to Bologna. Waiting for you at the top is the miraculous icon, as well as fantastic views of the red roofs of the city centre on one side, and the green hills rising towards the Apennines on the other.
On the way back, stop at the magnificent Basilica di San Francesco, 10 minutes from Porta Saragozza. It was one of the first Franciscan churches built in Italy, after a visit by the saint himself, and although the facade is Romanesque its rampart arches evoque Notre Dame of Paris, and the building is considered the first example of French Gothic in Italy. The marble main altar is considered a sculptural masterpiece.
 San Francesco © Oleksandr Kinshov/Unsplash
San Francesco soon became the preferred burial place of many intellectuals attached to the university, especially the leading glossatori (experts in Roman law), whose tombs you will sport in the chapels within the church, as well as outside, in sepulchres placed on raised marble 'arche' ('arks'), such as the one below.
 The arks outside San Francesco © Oleksandr Kinshov/Unsplash
Afternoon
If you are not travelling back in the afternoon, you can make the most of your final few hours in Bologna. Either fit in some incredible art by visiting the Pinacoteca Nazionale, with masterpieces from Giotto, Raphael, Tintoretto, the Carraccis, Guercino and Reni, but much smaller crowds than a similar museum in Florence or Venice.
Or learn to cook like a bolognese by signing up to a cookery lesson!
Making tagliatelle © Jorge Zapata/Unsplash
A city that will steal your heart
Three days in Bologna are just about right to appreciate its delightful mix of history, culture, and incredible food at an enjoyable pace.
Having studied there, I admit I am biased. Bologna will always have a special place in my heart. But it will in yours too, from the moment you arrive!
If you have any questions on this itinerary, do get in touch using the contact form.
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