Did you leave too late? Was it too expensive? Did you not fancy sharing a beach with thousands of other bodies? Are you done with over-tourism?
Whatever your reasons, if you haven't booked a seaside break but need your fix of sand and sea before the winter sets in, it may all be for the best.
Some of Europe's best-known seaside destinations are excellent autumn and even winter getaways.
A few thoughts on over-tourism
Over-tourism has been such a hot topic this year, and I completely sympathise with the feelings of residents priced out of their communities. However, the causes of over-tourism are manifold, and there are at least a few that we have the power to address through personal choice.
When I was a child in Italy, everybody was going on holiday in August because factories would shut down for 3 weeks. They do not shut anymore, and yet most people still choose to go in August, even though prices are higher and the beaches are so packed with bodies you can hardly enjoy them. The same applies to France, Greece, Croatia and Spain at those times of the year.
I think it is also important to acknowledge that many locations that are now suffering from extreme tourism were poor before tourism turned their economies around.
So, I feel this very serious issue needs to be addressed in a balanced, sensible way, for the benefit of residents and tourists alike.. In my opinion, visitors can bring about some impactful change simply by making some responsible choices. I guess it is a matter of asking ourselves why we want to a certain destinations, and what are our priorities. If we are bound by school holidays, we may not have much of a choice. If all we want is warm water for swimming, or a tan, or long hikes by the coast, then we do have options. Travelling in the off-season whenever possible alleviates your impact, and stretches the season in the destination you are visiting, potentially keeping someone in a job for longer than a couple of months.
Good reasons to take a European seaside trip in late summer and autumn
If you go in September, most of Europe's famous beach destinations will be at their best, minus the crowds. Unless there is an early and prolonged spell of rain, the water tends to be warmer in September in the Med. Temperatures begin to drop as the days get shorter, but in some places such as southern Spain, southern Italy, and the Greek and Spanish islands, the sea may still be warm enough to swim in the second half of October or even early November.
If you are not a keen swimmer, and all you want is short sleeves and a walk on the beach, then you could leave it even later. In November and December, you are likely to encounter some rain, but equally, there is a strong chance of short but bright days, with sunshine and gentle daytime temperatures. A Sicilian Christmas often includes a trip to a gelateria in short sleeves!
How to organise a successful off-season trip
Whatever you are dreaming of, you have earned this break. So, be honest with yourself, brainstorm your priorities, and make sure the destination your choose can deliver on those priorities for you.
For example, if you want to swim in the sea every day do not go to Liguria in December, and if you want a complete away from it all vibe, maybe Puglia and Sicily in September will feel too busy still.
You may not need it at all, but make a plan B for rainy weather, such as a museum, a spa, or even just a Gargantuan meal - you are on holiday after all!
Pack a warmer set of clothes for the evening or a spell of cooler weather.
Unless you fly, I recommend a week for all the late sun trips below, as the journeys will take about a day each way. The only exception is the south of France, which you could attempt over a long weekend if you decide to go by train.
Europe's great late sun destinations
So without further ado, here my recommended European late summer and autumn destinations, perfect for sea lovers.
South of France
When the crowds have gone, it is the perfect time to discover the timeless beauty of the south of France.
I visited in November once, for a long weekend. I did get a mix of rain and sunshine, but when the sun was shining the light in Marseilles and the Calanques area was incredible, and the early sunsets in Cassis were glorious.
Antibes, Marseilles, and Nice are all great bases, and you can stay inland in Aix en Provence, like I did, if you want that quintessential Provençal vibe.
The Calanques between Marseille and Cassis © Hugo Vidal/Unsplash
Getting there: You can drive to the south of France easily from Belgium, Luxembourg, Switzerland, Austria, and parts of Italy.
Thanks to SNCF's high speed network, you can also reach the south of France by train from Belgium, the UK, Germany, Italy, and Switzerland
Cinqueterre - Liguria
The Cinqueterre, 5 delightful clusters of pastel houses connected by scenic coastal paths, and virtually car-free, is a dream destination for many. Besides the famous Via dell'Amore (Path of Love) between Rio Maggiore and Manarola is re-opening in August 2024, after a long restoration.
The Cinqueterre National Park is often very busy in summer, to the point that the local administration is considering daily caps on tourist numbers. In autumn, the paths and the villages (Monterosso, Vernazza, Manarola, Corniglia, and Riomaggiore) are not as busy and you really get to enjoy the place.
You could get some rain, but Liguria can be rainy in high summer too..Besides, Liguria is one of the warmest parts of Italy, so chances are you will be able to soak in the atmosphere and hike or train-hop to your heart's content without the summer crowds.
In September the water will still be warm for swimming, From October it will take quite a bit of getting used to./ But you get your daily dose of sea air by constantly hiking along the coast.
Vernazza from above © Josh Hild/Unsplash
Getting there: You can drive to Cinqueterre, but parking is tricky. Besides, the 5 villages are connected by local train, so why bother?
You can get to Cinqueterre by train from France, Switzerland, Austria, and Germany. If the day trip is too long, there is even an ÖBB Nightjet train from Vienna and Munich! The journey from the Netherlands, the UK, Belgium, and Luxembourg is a bit longer, but if you have a week you can easily do it, and plan a couple of strategic stopovers en route.
Puglia
The heel of Italy is a long way from the rest of Europe, but I still rank my journey from Amsterdam to Puglia as one of the highlights of my travel,
You may get some rain but the water in Puglia is often warm enough for swimming until the end of October, and the delightful villages, the trulli of the Valle d'Itria, the medieval castles and unique cathedrals will dazzle you with their beauty.
Local trains get you to some of the most celebrated Puglian locations such as Polignano a Mare, Trani, and Monopoli. You can also get to Ostuni, although the station is a bit out of town and you will need a quick taxi ride.
The rock cliffs of Polignano a Mare in low season © Georgiana Andreca/Unsplash
Getting there: The main cities in Puglia (Bari, Foggia, Lecce) are well connected by high-speed train to the north of Italy.
For the best connections, from France you need to get to Milano (with SNCF or Trenitalia); from Switzerland you need to get to Milano with SBB, from Germany to either Verona or Bologna with DB or ÖBB (Nightjet). From Belgium and the Netherlands, you can either travel to Paris and follow the Paris route, or catch the ÖBB Nightjet service to Munich (or a DB day train). Once in Munich, you follow the Munich to Puglia route (DB or ÖBB to Verona or Bologna followed by Trenitalia to Puglia).
South of Spain
The south of Spain has a well-deserved reputation for late sun. On the south coast of the Mediterranean, the water is often warm enough for swimming until the end of October - I have spent quite a few late October holidays in the area over the years.
The Atlantic side will have colder water, but the beautiful windswept beaches on the Costa de La Luz in low season have an away-from-it-all feeling.
You can soak up the sun-kissed beaches well into the depths of autumn - and early winter if you love wilderness like I do -; do yoga on the beach, hike, and enjoy the seafood in a chiringuito.
Or you can combine relaxation and culture and discover some of Andalucia's Moorish gems, such as Sevilla, Granada, and Cordoba, the glorious cities of medieval Spain, with their Moorish minarets, mosques turned into cathedral and the spectacle of the Alhambra.
The peaceful beauty of the Alhambra of Granada © Austin Gardner/Unsplash
Getting there: The main cities in Andalucia (Sevilla, Cordoba, Granada, are well connected by train. Coming from northern Europe, the best route includes the SNCF OuiGo (high-speed train) between Paris and Barcelona. From Barcelona direct RENFE Trains take you to Sevilla and even to Cadiz if you prefer to relax on the beaches before sightseeing.
Another location connected by train to Sevilla and with beautiful natural beaches is Huelva. The Costa del Sol is served by long distance buses, but not by trains, so if you prefer the Mediterranean I would recommend a car.
Sicily
There is a train between Sicily and mainland Italy, and it is loaded onto a ferry!
This is an experience you have to try, as I think Sicily is the only place in Europe where this happens. The trick is to book an Intercity train, as the high-speed trains stop in Naples.
Apart from Mount Etna, Sicily will be warm in autumn - even in December daytime temperatures can be in the low twenties.
Once you arrive in Sicily prepare to be surprised by one of the most diverse and culturally rich parts of Europe. The architecture and the food bear witness to the blend of Arabic, Greek, and Norman which is the core of Sicilian heritage. From the stunning Greek centre of Siracusa to the Arabic-Norman churches and palaces of Palermo and Cefalu, from the timeless beauty of Taormina to the baroque of Noto, there is something for everyone.
The Norman cathedral of Cefalu, © Antonio Sessa/Unsplash
Getting there: Entering Italy via Torino, Milan, or Verona on a high-speed Trenitalia/ SNCF train (coming from Paris) or a DB or ÖBB service (from Munich or Vienna), change for a high-speed Italo or Trenitalia train to Naples and in Naples catch the Intercity to Messina. You can then use the local train or coach lines to move around Sicily - or rent a car. Sicilian motorways are quiet even in summer, and the interior of the island feels unchanged since the days of The Leopard, or the Normans whose castles dot the interior.
I would not recommend a drive unless you break it off with 2 or 3 stops as it is very long.
Off-season sea is an experience you'll want to repeat
I hope I have convinced you that an autumn seaside holiday is not a crazy idea, Actually, autumn could be the best time for a great southern European trip! Whether you go for culture in Sicily or coastal bliss in Liguria, southern Europe at this time of the year is simply fantastic.
If your idea of autumn involves picturesque foliage here are some ideas for a very different type of break.
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