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Writer's pictureLara@Alps2Coast

Wisteria to poppies. My guide to the beauty of Italy in spring

Updated: Jul 31


Planning a trip to Italy in spring? Make the most of the 'fioriture' season. From the azaleas of Rome's Spanish Steps, to cherry blossoms in Emilia-Romagna, from wildflowers to pulses, the Bel Paese will reward you with some visual feasts and incredible experiences.


Poppy fields in Sociville (Siena) © Paolo Orsini/Unsplash


From the Alps to the cities, Italians love to celebrate the arrival of spring. With an eye on the weather forecast and one on the blooming and flowering calendar, they organise trips or weekend breaks to destinations famous for their spring palettes.


Do like the locals and discover Italy dressed in its spring magic!



Why go to Italy in spring?


When spring arrives, the Italians get out and about. Day trips are popular, and from Easter to the national holidays of 25th of April, 1st of May and 2nd of June there are plenty of opportunities for savouring the beauty of spring at different stages, as different plants come into bloom or flower.


The flowering season is called 'fioritura.' The term is not only used to refer to the cherry blossom or tulip season. Popular fioriture pay homage to bright meadows of poppies, dandelions, and wildflowers, and even the humble lentil!


The destinations famous for their fioriture will mark the occasion with events and celebrations. It is wonderful way to discover some new parts of the country, or rediscover in a different light some you may have seen before.


If you go around one of the holidays above, it may be busy, but for the rest spring tends to be relatively quiet, so you'll make the most of your time there. If you are driving, it will be easier to find parking and to move around, and if you are travelling by train you are more likely to find great offers. Accommodation will be easier to find too.


Weatherwise, spring is always unpredictable. You may get some rainy days - but hey you are in Italy, there are enough churches, palaces, museums, and trattorie to keep you entertained. You will also get some gorgeously bright warm spells.


So, without further ado, here is my guide to spring 'fioriture,' spanning the width and breadth of Italy.


 

A short guide to Italy's ten best destinations to visit this spring


In this post, I will highlight specifically fioriture that happen between March and early June. This is the reason I do not mention poppies or lotus flowers, that you may have read about in other blogs. I have also tried to include varied landscapes, from the Alps to the islands, from north to south, and some of Italy's most famous cities as well.



1. Agrigento - Valley of the Temples


The Valley of the Temples on the outskirts of Agrigento is one of the most precious archaeological parks in the Mediterranean, home to the best preserved Greek ruins in Sicily, and rightly on the UNESCO Heritage list. In late winter and early spring, the beauty of the temples is enriched by the beauty of almond trees in bloom.


Almond blossoms © Casey Lovegrove/Unsplash


I recommend checking when the sun sets and going in the late afternoon. A pink sunset over the temples crowned by cream-coloured petals is truly unforgettable, and a full moon rising through the columns of the Temple of Concordia, shining its white light over the almond blossoms, is a memory you will take with you forever.


Temple of Concordia © Casey Lovegrove/Unsplash


In March, the arrival of spring is celebrated with the aptly named festival Mandorlo in Fiore (Almond blossom) and the whole town comes to life for 2 weeks of theatre, music and processions.


Although the peak of the fioritura is in early March, almond trees may begin to blossom much earlier, even in late January. So even a winter visitor may be treated to this incredible experience.


This spring will see another highlight. A newly restored statue of Atlas has been pieced together from the rubble of the 5th-century BC temple of Zeus. Believed to be the largest in the Doric style, the temple was supported not only by traditional columns but also by 38 statues of Atlas - the Titan who in Greek mythology carried the earth on his shoulder. This single reconstructed statue now proudly occupies thetop of the where the temple once stood, looking over fields of yellow wildflowers, just like it must have done its its heyday.


How to get there: Agrigento is in the southwest of Siciliy, and 2-3 hours from Catania and Palermo by both train and car.


2. Vignola

If we think of cherry blossoms we think of cloud-like trees in Japanese parks and cities, but there is one place in Italy that could rival with Japan's best. The town of Vignola, close to Modena, is the home of Italy's most renowned cherry, the Ciliegia di Vignola.


Castle and cherry blossoms © Stefano Zocca


The medieval centre of Vignola, of early medieval origin, is delightful, with a beautiful and well preserved castle (Rocca di Vignola) with remarkable frescoes and architectural features.


Cherry blossoms © Stefano Zocca


To see the cherry trees in bloom, plan your visit for April. You can rent a bicycle and ride on the Percorso Natura Panaro in a landscape of cherry trees, poplars and willows.


During the blooming season, there is also a 2-week Festa dei Ciliegi in Fiore (cherry blossom festival) with music, guided hikes, and of course food stands where you can try specialities from the province of Modena and the rest of Emilia-Romagna.

How to get there: Vignola is connected to Bologna by a direct train and the journey takes one hour. From Modena, you can get there by coach (45 minutes) or drive (40 minutes).


3. Campo Imperatore


Crocus flowering at Campo Imperatore © Silvana Amicone/Unsplash


When we think of the Apennines, we tend to think of the rolling hills of Tuscany, but this range includes some high mountains that could hold their own against many alpine peaks. The highest Apennines are in the Abruzzo region, and the highest of them all, at almost 3,000 meters above sea level, is the Gran Sasso d'Italia.


Abruzzo's rugged wilderness betrays a rich history, as witnessed by its Roman settlements, hilltop castles and hermitages. It also makes it a good home for many protected animal species, whose survival is one of the objectives behind the Gran Sasso national park.


Its flora is also unique, and the treeless highlands of Campo Imperatore, in the shadow of the Gran Sasso and part of its national park. at 2,200 metres above sea level, boasts Abruzzo's most celebrated flowering - the crocus. This plant, a poisonous relation of saffron, decorates the fields of Campo Imperatore with dots of rich mauve colour.


The fioritura season begins in early March, just as the snow begins to retreat from the mountains. If the winter has not yet relented, you may even witness an incredible display or tiny stubborn flowers raising their lilac-mauve head through the snow.


How to get there: There are no trains to Campo Imperatore, but the drive through the Apennines, although demanding, is incredibly scenic. You can get there in 1 hour 30 minutes from Pescara, and in over 2 hours from Ancona and Rome.



4. Rome


The first time I went to Rome it was mid March. The locals were wearing coats, and I was wearing a light jacket and anorak - it was raining.

The rain did not last long, and the mid afternoon swiftly emerged to paint everything in the pink light that according to Marcello Mastroianni made his city special. Homer uses the adjective rose-fingered for the goddess of dawn, that colours the world. Rome is certainly watched over by a rose-fingered goddess.


Colosseo ©Pierre Antona/Unsplash


Bright light mixes with the golden pink brush strokes of the ancient buildings, contributing to the feeling of walking through history. Delicate orange blossoms mark

the end of winter, and from mid April the city celebrates its birthday in cinematic style, through the flowering of azaleas. 600 pots of white, lilac, pink and red azaleas will remain on the Spanish Steps for the entire period of their flowering time.


The Spanish Steps in their spring dress © Alessia Cocconi/Unsplash


Rome's great gardens, from Villa Borghese to the Vatican, join in, and it is a true joy of the senses to take a break from the chaos of the city in these incredible oases, and to admire the dome of the Vatican or Castel Sant'Angelo through a lattice of magnolia blossoms.


Magnolias in the Vatican gardens © Gabriella Clare Marino/Unsplash


Rome can be busy in the week leading up to and after Easter. Travel in March for less crowds, and bright light, or in April outside the Italian holidays, to really enjoy the city.


For a 3-day itinerary, check out my post.


How to get there: I would not recommend a car in Rome, If you are driving through Italy, find a safe place to park it at your previous stop, and catch a train.

It is easy to get to Rome by train from the rest of Europe, and the last stretch of the ride, from Bologna to the Roman countryside, is magnificent. You'll feel like you are travelling through postcards from Italy. From Austria and Germany there a night trains. From western Europe, get yourself to Milan, which is connected to Rome by frequent high sped trains.



5. Garda Lake and Parco Giardino Sigurtà


Baia delle Sirene © Marco Ghirello/Unsplash


The Garda Lake needs no introduction. The largest body of water in Italy, it has been settled since prehistory, and savvy Romans including the poet Catullus were already building villas by its blue waters.


Bordered by 3 regions, it boasts diverse landscapes. It is dramatic in the north, where the shore is framed by the Dolomites, and on the eastern side, where terracotta villages (Malcesine, Bardolino, Torri del Benaco) are nestled between sea and mountains. On the southern side, the pearl of the lake is the ruin-studded Sirmione peninsula, The western side boasts elegant villages and historic villas, and the aptly named Limone sul Garda Everywhere, the vegetation is lush, and subtropical plants mix with cypress and olive trees - the local oil is a delicacy.


A word of warning: you will not be swimming in the lake in spring - the water is far too cold. But you will admire its incredible views and visit its sights without the summer crowds.

The medieval centre of Valeggio sul Mincio, to the south of the Lake, is a perfect day trip and a change from the lake scenery.. After visiting the Veronese fortress (Rocca Scaligera} and the delightful Borghetto on the river, it is time to discover one of the most celebrated gardens in Italy.


A view of Valeggio © Claudio Cesaro/Unsplash


Parco Sigurtà is wonderful year round, and there are constant flowerings - there is a helpful calendar on their website. But their tulip fioritura is the most renowned in Italy, and second in Europe, beaten only by Keukenhof in the Netherlands


Sigurta' tulips © Luca Florio/Unsplash


Between March and April. a million tulips representing over 300 varieties embellish the lawns of the Park, in a dazzling display of the brightest colours.


The Parco is fascinating outside tulip season too. May is a celebration of roses. There is a labyrinth to lose yourself into a charming water garden.

Also, take time to read about the history of the park, one of the first English-style gardens in Italy developed by one of Italy's great 18th-century intellectuals.


How to get there: The most important resorts along the lake are served by train stations.

You will need a car to get to Valeggio, or rely on local transport/taxis.



6. Merano and Trauttmansdorff Castle Gardens


Spring hiking outside Merano © Adege/Pixabay


Merano is probably my husband's favourite place in the world so we have visited a number of times.


Spring does not seem like the most obvious time to visit the Alps, they tend to be seen as winter or summer destinations. But there is something special about an alpine hike in the season of thawing, discovering crocus and other wildflowers amongst the new grasses, while the mountains in the distance are still thick with snow.


Besides, Merano is different. It is surrounded by the Alps but lies at the bottom of a valley with a warm microclimate - and by warm I Mean proper, subtropical warm. You will find palm trees in Merano!

Empress Sissi loved to retreat in Merano, and used to stay in Trauttmansdoff Castle, and its gardens, on a sunny hillside above the city centre, have been turned into wonderful botanical gardens.


Trauttmansdorff © Dietmar Poppler/Unsplash


The flowers of Trauttmansdorff Castle Gardens burst into bloom in spring, just as the park gates reopen: camelia are first, followed by tulips, then cherry blossoms continue the spring magic.


Merano is also famous for its Thermae (Thermal Baths) so you can combine hiking, visiting Trauttmansdorff and wellness to truly embrace the spring. And have I mentioned delicious South Tyrolean food?


How to get there: You can get to Merano by train easily from the rest of Italy, Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. Once there, you are unlikely to need a car, as public transport is first class.


7. Castelluccio di Norcia


Castelluccio, outside the Umbrian city of Norcia, is a hamlet in the Monti Sibillini national park. The area is famous for their local lentils. Planted at the end of winter, after the snow melts, the lentils grow in the fields symbiotically with other species, such as violets, gentianellas, daffodils, poppies, buttercups, and daffodils.


In late May and early June, the grassland explodes into a painter's dream of colours, from golden yellow to bright red to oneiric blue. Nature is the main painters of course, but the farmers have learnt to plant in ways that support and perfect nature's brush strokes. The best fioriture are Pian Grande and Pian Perduto.


Fields around Castelluccio © ErnestoScarponi


There is of course a celebration, the feast of the “Fiorita” (the third and last Sunday of June).

Fields around Castelluccio © Ernesto Scarponi


Landlocked Umbria is a beautiful region, steeped in history. You can easily spend a week exploring medieval villages and towns, hermitages, castles, Franciscan shrines and cathedrals, Giotto's frescoes. Assis or Castelluccio? Giotto or Mother Nature. Go and cast your vote!


How to get there: Norcia does not have a train station. Travel to Spoleto or Terni and get a taxi, or rent a car to discover the other wonders of Umbria.


8. Lake Maggiore


Another lake, another triumph of tulips. The gardens of Villa Taranto in Verbania, on Lago Maggiore, compete with Parco Sigurtà for the crown of best tulip fioritura in Italy. 70 varietà of tulips are artfully arranged and even form a labyrinth!

The villa opens its grounds every year in mid March, just as the first tulips flower.


Spring at Villa Taranto © Azzedine Rouichi/Unsplash


The history of the gardens is fascinating too. They were created in the 1930's by a Scottish captain, Neil Mc Eacharn, who wanted to recreate on Lago Maggiore a garden to remind him of home. He loved his creation so much he did not want to leave. He is now buried in a mausoleum in the grounds.


Verbania does not boast the only grand gardens on Lake Maggiore. The jewel like Isole Borromoee scattered in the middle of the Lake offer two other grand examples. Isola Bella, whose baroque garden is enriched by highly scenic features such as the Teatro Massimo (below) overlooking the lake.


Isola Bella © Mikita Yo/Unsplash


The other great Lake Maggiore garden is at Isola Madre. It is a lush tropical garden, with plants collected in all corners of the world. Gardeners have designed with the purpose of continuous flowering, so no matter when you go some heady scents and striking colours will draw you in. Magnolias, camelias and pergolas of wisteria are the heralds of spring.


View from Stresa © Laura Lauch/Unsplash


There is so much to do on lake Maggiore, an area that I try to visit at least once a year and where I always discover something new.

Whilst the lake water will be cold, the colours and the incredible light will feel very similar to those of a bright summer day. Visiting the gardens and the islands will take a good couple of days, and the area offer other wonders such as the delightful centre of Arona, with its view of the Rocca di Angera, and the wonderful lakeside Strada Statale all the way to Switzerland, where you'll want to stop at every bend to take a photo.


How to get there: Regular Trenord trains from Milan take you to Arona, Verbania, and Stresa. Once there, move around with trains, local buses, and lake ferries to cross the lake from north to south and from east to west. Alternatively rent a car.



9. The Siena countryside


The Siena countryside is quintessential Tuscany at its best. Those rolling hills, the slender cypresses surrounding ancient stone farmhouses or bordering those impossibly beautiful country lanes..


Val d'Orcia © Kathy Archibald-Woodward/Unsplash


Spring adds another dimension to this magic. The tender green grasses are the first to arrive, then yellow wildflowers mark the month of April. In May, the countryside explodes with red patches of poppies.


Siena cathedral exterior © Mario LaPergola


If you visit the area, make sure to spend at least a day in the city of Siena. It rivalled with Florence in the late middle ages, and while it may not have Brunelleschi's dome its black and white duomo is one of the most incredible churches you'll ever see, and the Battistero, with a baptismal fond decorated by Ghiberti and Donatello amongst others is stunning. So is Piazza del Palio, formerly the site of the city's Roman forum, between the three hills that constituted the heart of ancient Siena. And the whole city, small and so rich of monuments, is a delight to explore on foot.


Fields in La Foce, Siena © Jean-Luc Benazet/Unsplash


You can use the city as a base or decamp to Val d'Orcia for the rest of your stay. It is hard to recommend a specific village. Montalcino which famously produces Brunello, Pienza, the ideal city conceived by a Renaissance pope, gorgeous Montepulciano with its terrace overlooking the valley, car-free San Quirico and the stunning Bagno Vignoni (whose centre is a Roman thermal pool) and Bagni San Filippo, where a hot spring is hidden in the forest.


The scenic drive between Pienza and Chianciano (via San Quirico) is the ultimate Tuscany drive at any time of the year, but the poppies fioritura make it unforgettable.


How to get there: Catch a train to Siena and then move around with local buses/coaches. I recommend renting a car to maximise time, and visit as many of the villages as possible.



10. Lake Como


Lake Como needs no introduction. Its star-studded shores, crowned by verdant mountains, are dotted with delightful villages and elegant villas with magnificent views. Ferries cross the lake, which means you can admire the beauty of its shores and catch glimpses of the grand residences from the middle of its blue waters.


Springtime on Lake Como © AXPPhotography/Unsplash


Spring is a wonderful time to visit. Excluding weekends and holidays, the road along the lake is not busy, and the lake comes alive with blooming trees. The best time to go is from end of March to end of April during the fioritura of the plant you will have seen on so many postcards and images of the lake: wisteria. Pink, white, purple, or blue, it climbs

up rocks, the facades of houses and restaurants, and of course the walls of the magnificent lake villas.


Springtime at Villa del Balbianello © AXPPhotography/Unsplash





How to get there: Como, Lecco, and Varenna are well connected with Milano by train, and buses take you around the lake to discover the other villages. Alternatively you can drive. Either way, make sure you take a few boat trips too.



Discover Italy one fioritura at a time


I hope you found a destination or two that piqued your interest and that you are now tempted to catch the train next time you are in Italy.


In case you are wondering what happened to the sunflowers of Tuscan dreams, they are not mentioned in this post because they are a summer flower. I have highlighted specifically fioriture that happen between March and early June. I will write a post dedicated to summer fioriture later in the year.


If you have any questions regarding this short guide to Italy in spring, do get in touch through the contact form. And do not forget to subscribe to the blog to get my weekly posts on European seasonal travel, train, and road trips, directly into your inbox.


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