I love South Tyrol, the German-speaking province of northeastern Italy bordering Austria, nestled amidst the Alps. South Tyrol ('Suedtirol' in German and 'Trentino Alto Adige' in Italian) is one of the three provinces home to the Dolomites. The blend of incredible natural beauty, gourmet food and wine, and cultural and historical jewels is hard to beat.
Amongst the many beautiful sites of South Tyrol, the town of Brixen (or Bressanone in Italian), occupies a special place in my heart, and I have visited it several times. Here's why you should consider adding this small Italian gem to your bucket list.
House front in the Domplats © Alps2Coast
The attractions of Brixen (Bressanone)
Brixen (Bressanone) is surrounded by stunning nature and vineyards; but it also has a lovely, compact, and elegant Old Town of medieval origin. plus some other ancient architectural wonders such as the Abbey of Novacella (Neustift) in the immediate vicinity.
Bressanone (Brixen) also prides itself on its cultural heritage, running events throughout the seasons, and is home to one of Italy's most loved Christmas markets.
To top it all up, it is easy to reach by train from Italy, Austria, and Germany, so you don't need to fly or drive to get there.
The South Tyrolean provincial government seriously promotes sustainable tourism and public transport, you may even be able to use it for free! For me, the ability to explore while being kind to the earth makes the holiday even more enjoyable.
The cathedral's cloisters ©Alps2Coast
When to go
Although surrounded by the Alps, Bressanone/Brixen is at the bottom of a valley, so it can get really warm in Summer. If you are looking for outdoor eating, swimming and long hikes, I'd say it is the best time to go, although I would avoid August as it can be very busy. Winter is great if you enjoy alpine. Go from the end of November to the Epiphany to discover its famous Christmas markets, one of the most interesting in Europe.
I'd love to go in Spring and Autumn: to admire the awakening of nature of the beauty of the wine harvest and falling leaves. Days will be shorter but the colour palette will compensate with its magic! I have included Brixen in my recommended destinations for an autumn short break
Getting there and around
Bressanone (Brixen) is well connected by direct train to Bologna and Verona in Italy, as well as Innsbruck in Austrian and Munich in Germany. The journey from Munich takes under 3 and a half hours, from Innsbruck roughly 1 and a half hour, from Verona 2 hours and 20 minutes. From Bologna the old direct regional service takes 4 hours and 45 minutes; if you are in a hurry you can book an indirect service, travelling high-speed to Bolzano or Verona and connecting with the regional services there.
I need to stress that the Brenner train line from Munich to Verona is a beauty in itself. I covered it in detail in my post on Europe's most scenic train rides. So it is worth going by train to enjoy this incredible journey. You will feel like your holiday begins the moment you find your seat!
I mentioned the local administration's push for sustainable travel. Regular regional trains and coaches connect Bressanone (Brixen) with other destinations in the South Tyrol province.
Still unsure? Well, if you stay 3 nights or more you can use all public transport for free! Justask your accommodation provider for the BrixenCard.
The charms of the old town © Marcus Ganahl Unsplash
Between Germany and Italy. A short history of Bressanone (Brixen)
In Roman times, Bressanone (Brixen) was a stop on the Via Rhaetia, at the confluence of the Eisack and Rienz rivers and near the Brenner alpine pass. This strategic position became even more important in medieval times, when both sides of the Alps were part of the Holy Roman Empire.
The German-speaking Diocese of Brixen was established in the 8th century, and the town gradually developed around the cathedral. The Brixen bishops played an important historical role in the early Middle Ages, playing hosts to popes and emperors and mediating between them. Its position on the Via Rhaetia also helped Brixen grow into a prosperous trading town. Some of the medieval historical buildings are preserved, although concealed by a baroque exterior.
The town's fortunes fluctuated and eventually, Brixen became part of the Habsburgs empire, whose rule left a splendid mark on the city's architecture.
The end of World War I brought significant changes. South Tyrol, including Brixen, was ceded to Italy under the Treaty of Versailles. The fascist era was marked by Italianization policies, which aimed to assimilate the German-speaking population. The local people resisted these efforts, and succeeded in maintaining their unique identity, protected by the Italian postwar constitution.
This is why the city is referred to in two languages in timetables and documents, and why every sign is bilingual.
You may have been wondering why I kept referring to the town with both names, as it makes the reading a bit cumbersome. I agree, but I felt I had to respect the local heritage,
My 3-days in Bressanone (Brixen) guide
Day 1 - Explore Bressanone (Brixen)'s Old Town
The walk from the station to the Old Town takes around 15 minutes, and you will presumably need to find your accommodation/drop your luggage before you start exploring, so assuming you arrive in the late morning or early afternoon, it will be your stomach will be rumbling by the time you are ready to explore. That is a good thing. because the food in Brixen is superb, and so are the wines.
Domplatz roof architecture © Alps2Coast
Wander through the cobbled streets, admiring the imposing cathedral and the medieval towers and arcades, and let yourself be tempted by the offerings of the many restaurants.
South Tyrolean cuisine is Austrian cuisine, with an Italian twist, and an Italian obsession for quality and locally-grown ingredients. South Tyrol prides itself on 'slow food', and some of the cheeses, yogurt, and meats you try here will be hard to find anywhere else in Italy. Expect Knödel (bread dumplings with either speck, sausage or spinach), a profusion of pork dishes, from Speck to Schnitzel to roasted knuckle. To end your meal, you will struggle to find a place that does not sell a delicious Strudel!
South Tyrolean wines also deserve a special mention. They are delicious and the production is limited so you may taste something hard to find outside Italy, and even just outside South Tyrol. Sylvaner and Kerner are delicious local whites.
After you have satisfied your palate, it is time to indulge your other senses.
The most obvious starting point is the main square, which you have probably already passed en route to your accommodation. Its name is Domplatz, or Piazza del Duomo, and the reason is obvious, it is dominated by the majestic frame of Brixen Cathedral. But it also conveys the more hedonistic charms of Brixen. A fountain in the middle acts as a meeting point, and sculptures and wall paintings on the house facades evoke vines. The side of the square opposite the cathedral is lined with charming cafes.
The cathedral © Alps2Coast
Brixen Cathedral seems almost out of place in what is by today's standards a smallish town, but its sheer size gives you a clear idea of how important medieval Brixen was. The exterior, with its Austrian-style belltower, feels very Baroque, but step in and you will discover a blend of Baroque and medieval styles. The most magnificent artistic treasure of Brixen lies just outside the cathedral, as a matter of fact, it is connected to it.
It is the painted cloisters. In medieval times, most people could not read, so just like sculptors would decorate cathedrals with statues of biblical scenes, painters could do the same. In Brixen, local painters painted the cloisters' vaults and arches with religious stories. The scenes are vivid and graceful, in stunningly bright colours. The sculpted archways frames a peaceful central garden with a well in the middle. When I am in Brixrn, I try and walk through the cloisters once a day. I am never bored, every time I discover something amazing and new.
Elephant painted on one of the cloisters vaults © Alps2Coast
I also warmly recommend the Hofburg, the archbishop's palace. Brixen. The Hofburg palace is charming. Like the cathedral, it seems almost too magnificent in relation to the size of the city, and yet its elegance blends perfectly with its surroundings, creating a harmony of yellow paint and pale stone, which, for me, conjures the magic of Brixen. A special mention should go to the splendid Renaissance courtyard.
Christmas in the Hofburg's wonderful Renaissance courtyard © Alex1965/Pixabay
The Hofburg's vast baroque rooms, with elegant frescoed ceilings, now house the Diocesan Museum. Through its art collection you can trace the history of the city itself and the impact that different cultural movements had in Brixen,
The Hofburg's gardens, the Hofgarten, are a lovely green oasis, where you can sit and watch the.world go by, and appreciate the changing of the seasons.
There is another church to the left of the Duomo, Saint Michael's. Walk to the side of this church and you will see in front of you the Adlerbrücke (Ponte Aquila). It is a beautiful Bridge, dominated by an eagle sculpture, hence the name It, and the best place to cross the Eisack, and head to the Stufels, the oldest part of Brixen, first inhabited in the Neolithic period.
A view of the centre from the Stufels © Alps2Coast
I mentioned earlier that Brixen was born at the confluence between the Rienz and Eisack (Rienza and Isarco) rivers, and the public gardens will lead you to the confluence. But the Stufels also have great architecture and a creative vibe. Historically, this was the poor side of the river; the bishop and the well-to-do people lived on the other side. But today upcoming artists have found their creative space here and Stufels has a vibrant atmosphere.
Of course, if you are travelling to Brixen in the Christmas market season, the Domplatz is the centre of the action, and you will also want to check out the Light and Music Show at the Hofburg.
Day 2 - Nature immersion
Brixen is small, and nature is always on your doorstep. Follow the Eisack (Isarco) river trail, and in 20 minutes you will be out of town, in an alpine wonderland of apple orchards, vineyards, and forests.
If you want a glimpse of the Dolomites, I strongly recommend a visit to Mount Plose, In winter, Mount Plose is the ski slope area nearest to Brixen, In summer, it is a true hikers' paradise, with plenty of trails of different difficulty and views of the Odle and Sas de Putia Dolomite peaks. If you have the BrixenCard, you can take a gondola lift trip for free. Don't pass on the opportunity. If you are a keen hiker, you will want to spend the whole day on Mount Plose as there is so much to discover.
The view of the Dolomites from Mount Plose © Alps2Coast
If a whole day of alpine hiking feels like too much, you can catch the gondola back and explore more of the Eisack Valley trail, or come back to town and visit one of the city's museums.
Just start walking in either direction along the river, even just for a couple of kilometres. You will discover many picturesque corners, natural beauty, alpine huts, Tyrolean castles, delightful churches,
Brixen's surroundings © Alps2Coast
Do you prefer a more relaxing alternative? The Aquarena, the Brixen (Bressanone) public swimming pool complex, is a German-style 'bad' complex with a series of pools and relaxation areas. It is open all year round, or continue exploring the beautiful backstreets of Brixenm with its timber framed houses, porticoes, and beautiful architecture. Brixen is the kind of the place where beauty is in the detail, This is why it growws on you so much.
Or simply treat yourself to some local weiss wein or tea and people-watch in the delightful main square.
If you are travelling in the winter season, Mount Plose is a good idea if you are planning to ski. Otherwise, it may make more sense to explore along the Eisack. There are a number of recommended hiking paths on the Brixen tourist office website.
Day 3 - Explore further afield
No guide to Bressanone (Brixen) is complete, without the mention of the Abbey of Novacella (Neustift).
Technically, it is outside the city, in Vahrn/Varna, a suburb of Brixen. I discovered by accident, as once I stayed in a hotel there. But you can reach it very easily from the centre of Brixen, either by bus, or by walking along the river for about an hour
Many trails lead to Novacella © Giandomenico Pozzi/Unsplash
What lies in wait for you is one of South Tyrol's historic and artistic gems. It feels like an escape from the hustle and bustle of life into a haven of beauty and art.
Novacella (Neustift) is still a working abbey, with monks still living there, so it is one of the places where your experience of visiting a monastery is truly complete and enriching.
The Courtyard and the Well of Wonders at Novacella (Neustift) © Peter Lintner/Pixabay
Founded in 1142, the Novacella abbey grew and quickly became powerful thanks to land donations. It boasts stunning architecture, from its Romanesque castle and bell tower to its Gothic cloisters, to its breathtaking Baroque church. Besides, it has a renowned library stocked with medieval manuscripts and even its own winery. You can sample their wines at the bar on the premises, and I am no sommelier but the location made them truly special to me!
To plan your visit, check out their website here
Novacella (Neustift) from the north © By I, Parpan05/Wikipedia
The visit to Novacella (Neustift) will take a few hours, and you may even fancy rounding off your visit with a lunch in their wine bar. So you can finish the day by walking back to Bressanone (Brixen) and enjoying the delights of the centre for the rest of the day, perhaps visiting the pharmacy museum and indulging in some shopping.
Vineyards around Brixen (Bressanone) © Bence Balla/Unsplash
If you have the energy, you can also get on a local train to nearby Klausen (Chiusa), the home of possibly the most renowned German medieval poet, Walter von der Vogelwide, It is a delightful little town, surrounded by gorgeous vineyards and dominated by the ancient Sabiona monastery (whose monks founded Brixen in the middle ages). The train ride is only 7 minutes!
A wonderful small town where beauty awaits at every corner
This is how I would describe Brixen (Bressanone). I have visited many times and I never get tired of it. I would love to live there for a few months. It is a place to be enjoyed and discovered at a slow pace. It does not have a Sistine Chapel or Uffizi, but it has incredible art, magnificent architecture, and incredible nature all around it.
I need to share a tip with you. I have never been there in May, and I think it may be one of the best times to go. That is when the Brixen Water Light Festival is on, a celebration of earth's most precious resource, which drives home the message that water is 'blue gold.'
Local and international artists transform Brixen's water locations and cultural-historical treasures into an open-air gallery, to reflect on ecological, economic and social aspects relating to water and light.
If you have any questions about this itinerary, do get in touch using the contact form.
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