I first read about Toledo when studying for a university exam in Translation Studies. I discovered that this former capital of the Castilian kingdom had been one of the great intellectual centres of medieval Europe. I knew I had to go.
I did some research and discovered that Toledo is usually marketed as a day trip to tourists visiting Madrid. But I did not want to get in and out. I wanted to get under Toledo's skin. So I went for 3 days. Was it too long? Not really. There is so much to do and see in and around the city, I could easily have stayed another day!
The walls and Alcazar viewed from the Tagus © Miguel Angel Sanz/Unsplash
Why go to Toledo?
The Romans chose the setting of Toledo well. Perched strategically on a hilltop, it overlooks a meander in the Tagus river, so it was protected by water as well as height. Even nowadays, as you make your way from the train station, the sight of the citadel, with its walls and medieval bridges, is simply awe-inspiring. As you cross the bridge into the old town, be prepared for a maze of alleys where all the civilisations that made Toledo their home have left their mark: Roman, Visigothic, Moorish, and eventually the Castilians,
Today, Toledo is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, attracting visitors with its stunning architecture and rich cultural heritage, and its inspiring tale of tolerance and coexistence continues.
I mentioned the Tagus. Toledo's surroundings are beautiful, and a walk along the walls on the edge of the citadel, with the greenness of the trees reflected by the waters of the river, is a highlight of any visit to the city.
I visited Toledo in late March, and the weather was ideal. Dry warm days, but not stifling hot. Spring and autumn must be equally beautiful.
How to get there
Getting to Toledo from Madrid could not be easier. The city lies only 40 minutes by train from Atocha station - the main station in the capital. Trains are roughly every hour - check Trainline for details.
Toledo train station lies outside the citadel, so you will need to make your way there on foot - or hire a taxi. If you don't have heavy luggage, I recommend the walk. It is only 30 minutes, and memorable. You will enter the city through the Puente de Alcantara - one of its historic bridges straddling the Tagus. You will feel like you are stepping back in history.
The Alcantara Bridge © Alps2Coast
Once you are through the wall, moving around will be easy, as the old town is compact. With its hilltop position, it is also extremely panoramic, and the walk to your accommodation may treat you to sweeping views and unexpected turns. So, to make the most of the Toledo magic, stick to the most sustainable of all forms of transport - your own legs and feet!
A short history of Toledo
For the Romans, Toledo was a provincial municipium, but the city's fate changed significantly in the 6th century when the Visigoths established it as their capital. Although not much has survived above ground from this era, Toledo became an important Christian centre, and several important Church councils were held within its walls.
Following the Islamic conquest in the 8th century, Toledo became a significant cultural and intellectual centre, a hub of knowledge exchange between the Islamic and Christian worlds.
In 1085, the Christian king Alfonso VI of Castile reclaimed Toledo. and made it his kingdom's capital. This marked the beginning of a new chapter in the city's history. The coexistence of cultures continued, culminating in the 12th century in the creation of that Toledo School that had so fascinated me during my studies - the school that played a pivotal role in translating Arabic works into Latin, bridging the intellectual gap between the two worlds, and arguably planting the earliest seeds of what would become the Renaissance.
After the marriage of Isabella of Castilla and Ferdinando of Aragon, Toledo became the first capital of their unified Spanish kingdom. The city was endowed with splendid buildings and great artists operated there. This golden age waned as King Philip II moved the capital to Madrid. Yet, the city's historical significance endured. Its architectural marvels, including the Toledo Cathedral, the Alcazar, its churches, palaces and monasteries, and the remnants of its Jewish Quarter, are powerful reminders of its illustrious past.
What to see and do in Toledo, Spain. My 3-day itinerary
Day 1: Discovering the citadel, the Alcazar, and the Cathedral
Toledo central station truly sets the scene for the magic that lies ahead. The architects built in in Neo-Moorish style, to mirror some of the historical architecture of the city, and I was blown away by the stunning carved wooden roof. Like Antwerp in Belgium, Toledo boasts a station that is a tourist attraction in its own right.
The Toledo station main hall © Alps2Coast
When you leave it behind, you'll follow a main road in a modern neighborhood (the hospital is there) but after a bend in the road, you will catch the first glimpse of ancient Toledo, and a magnificent view it will be.
A walled city, dominated by a might Alcazar, and protected by the green waters of a river. A stone bridge, the Puente de Alcántara. seems like the only connection between the modern world you have left behind (station, hospital) and the trove of ancient treasures you are about to step into. Crossing the bridge is an experience I truly savoured. Take your time!
The bridge is not only aesthetically beautiful it is also ancient. Built by the Romans and the current structure is a mix of Roman and Moorish, a perfect epitome of what you'll find in the city.
The walls that surround the city are mainly Moorish and Christian, although some parts are of Visigothic origin.
Keep walking towards the imposing Alcazar. The current fortress replaces a medieval one which in turn was built on the site of the original Roman fort of Toledo. The interior houses the Army Museum. If that is not an interest of yours, make sure you take around the building, to get a feel for its impressive size, and for sweeping views of the Tagus valley!
En route to the cathedral, a worthy stop is Plaza del Ayuntamiento, home to the Renaissance-era Episcopal Palace Town Hall. Look for signs for the Jesuit church of San Ildefonso, which is located at Toledo's highest point. It is a great spot for photos of Toledo's rooftops and towers.
Our accommodation was in the area, so we dropped our luggage and checked in.
If you haven't done so already, it is a good moment, as you will need time to visit the next attraction the stunning Gothic cathedral of La Primada.may now be time to drop your luggage, before exploring one of Spain's most loved churches.
The Toledo cathedral Lions Portal © Alps2Coast
Built over two centuries, from 1226, on the site of the early Visigothic cathedral which had been turned into a mosque, the church is dedicated to Mary. It is often considered the most accomplished Gothic cathedral in Spain, and the most Spanish of all Gothic cathedrals.
It is worth remembering that King Ferdinand III and Archbishop Rodrigo Jimenez de Rada only started the building in 1226, but Toledo had been unconquered by the Castillans in 1085? Where did the Christians worship in that century and a half? They did use the existing mosque, making minimal adaptations such as fitting an altar and a belltower.
When the mosque-cathedral was replaced by the 'new' cathedral, in the Gothic style recently imported from France, the architects did not completely demolish the previous building, they adapted the mosque space. This example of 'sustainable' architecture, with a focus on re-using and re-purposing, is what makes the cathedral so unique.
Over 2 centuries, the building continued to grow and evolve, with remarkable features such as the golden raised altarpiece (retablo mayor), a number of mesmerising chapels, the choir, and incredible statuary.
Toledo is considered one of the gourmet capitals of Spain, so over dinner we made the most of the opportunity to try some of the delicious local specialties, from get stews to saffron dishes to manchego.
One of the reasons I had wanted to stay overnight was to admire the moon over the rooftops of Toledo, and I got my wish.
Day 2 - Searching for the 'Three cultures'
Toledo is known as 'the city of the 3 cultures,' and on Day 2 I set out to discover its Jewish heritage.
I have visited ghettos with glorious history, such as the Venice ghetto, but despite their fascination, they also exude an aura of exclusion, of separation. The Toledo Jewish quarter is a completely different experience. You can sense that being Jewish in medieval Toledo was no different from being Christian or Muslim. The buildings are beautifully evocative, poetic, and unapologetic. I loved the delicate filigrane decoration, white-washed simplicity and stunning ceiling of the Sinagoga Blanca, later converted into a church of Maria La Blanca.
The Sinagoga Blanca © Alps2Coast
The Sinagoga del Transito, which houses the Sephardic Museum, is considered the best-preserved medieval synagogue on earth, and it is just as wonderful.
The El Greco masterpiece 'Entierro del Señor de Orgaz' is also in the area, in the Iglesia de Santo Tomé.
After the Jewish quarter, we swapped culture for nature and walked the path along the city walls. It was a lovely way to go from Puente San Martin (the other gorgeous medieval bridge on the Tagus), to Puente de Alcantara.
The Puende de San Martin © Alps2Coast
It may be busy in summer, but in spring, even over a weekend, the walk is peaceful. You will meet occasional dog walkers and hikers but most of the time it will be just you and nature, birdsong all around you. En route, you also get to notice some remarkable buildings and spaces, such as the out-of-time gardens of the church of San Lucas.
After lunch, it was time to discover the traces of the other great culture of Toledo. As mentioned, traces of Arabic culture are ever-present in Toledo, even in the cathedral. In the layering of history, the centuries of Moorish rule have left a more permanent trace than the previous Roman and Visigoth eras. Nevertheless, there are a couple of highlights that deserve special mention.
One is the intriguing Puerta del Sol, one of the Toledo's main gates, which is a blend of Arabic and Christian architectural elements.
The Puerta del Sol © Alps2Coast
Our destination? The Mezquita Cristo de la Luz, a mosque turned into a church. It is a deeply mystical space, a thousand-year-old plain structure, with light filtering through the ceiling. The peacefulness of the setting is accentuated by the presence of water (the Roman thermae were nearby.
Light over pillar at Mezquita de la Luz © Alps2Coast
As mentioned, even though Toledo was the capital of the Visigothic kingdom from the 6th to the 8th centuries, the subsequent domination and related transformations of the city have almost completely erased the Visigothic presence. However, not all is lost. Archaeological excavations in Toledo have unearthed Visigothic artifacts and remains, suggesting that there might be hidden treasures beneath the city's streets.
There is one building though, where the memory of Visigothic Toledo still seems to hover. While Toledo's cathedral is a magnificent structure, the title of the most ancient church in the city likely belongs to the Church of San Román. Though the existing building is in a 13th-century Mudéjar style, there as previously a Roman building on the site, followed by a Visigothic one. Today, the Church of San Román houses the Museum of the Councils and Visigothic Culture, displaying artifacts from the Visigothic period, taking the traveller on yet another journey into Toledo's most mysterious ancient past.
It was time for dinner, and after an aperitif by San Martin's bridge, we felt a different a kind of celebration of Toledo's heritage was in order: Manchego cheese tastings!
Day 3 - Searching for the 'Three cultures'
Final days are always tricky, and I love retracing my steps and revisiting things, to retain the atmosphere of the place with me for longer after I leave. But there was one highlight we had deliberately left for the final day.
The Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes is one of the city's most photographed buildings. The church and monastery were built by Ferdinand and Isabella to celebrate the birth of their son, and to celebrate the reunification of Spain through their marriage. As Spain had never been a unified kingdom since the days of the Visigoths, Toledo felt like the perfect setting to symbolically mark the event..
The stellar vault of San Juan © Alps2Coast
The church has a single nave, with a stellar vault, and side chapels located between the buttresses. The coats of arms of Isabella and Ferdinand,d supported by a large eagle, decorate the main chapel.
One of the highlights of this atmospheric building is the elegant Gothic cloisters, whose slender architecture contracts with the lush vegetation at their centre. Oranges were fruiting when I visited.
Cloisters with orange tree © Alps2Coast
We spent the rest of the morning shopping for Manchego and saffron to take home, before treating ourselves to a leisurely long Spanish lunch. We walked back to the station the same way we had come - on foot, enjoying the ever-changing details of the walls and the river, and turning back many times towards the towers and rooftops of this simply special city. Before the bend, we took a last glimpse of the citadel and the Alcantara Bridge, and the glittering waters of the Tagus.
Take your time with Toledo
Spain offers many fascinating destinations, but Toledo in my view is one of the best. And before you ask, I am grateful I did not settle for a day trip. Toledo does not deserve to be hurried.
There is so much to seen and do, and so much to process. From the stunning nature along the Tagus river, to the complex heritage of its buildings, to the poignant message of coexistence and enrichment that its history is handing down to us.
Take your time with Toledo, enjoy it on its own. Then contrast it with Madrid. It will make you appreciate this magical ancient capital even more.
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