Late sun? Mist? Falling leaves? New wines and delicious food? Whatever your definition of autumn is, Europe can give you a chance to experience it at its very best.
When it comes to foliage, thanks to its many countries, varied landscapes, and climates, Europe offers many possibilities - from the misty magic of Bruges to the bright skies of Madrid. I have also handpicked destinations with a different vibe, from cities to remote countryside and mountain regions. The magic of autumn in Paris or London is very different from the magic of autumn at Nueschwainstein in Germany or on the Dolomites of Italy.
Some of these trips are ideal for a flightless long weekend; some others are perfect if you did not manage to book your leave over the summer and want to take a week off in the autumn.
So, without further ado, here are my foliage chart toppers, and how to get there.
1. Europe's urban foliage
When we read the word 'foliage' our mind tends to wander off to large forests and great outdoors, but many of Europe's cities have wonderful parks or tree-lined streets, squares and canals, where you can experience nature at its autumnal best.
To add to the appeal of cities at this time of the year, you can adapt your itinerary to the weather. If it rains, there are plenty of museums and attractions you can visit. And when the sun shines or the fog settles over these vast urban expanses, you can embrace the season's foliage magic.
Here are my personal top 5:
Autumn in London: Richmond Park
On the outskirts of London, this royal park, and former royal hunting ground, is a haven of woodland and grassland.
London is at its most charming in autumn, but there is something truly special about Richmond Park at this time of the year. When the morning mist reveals the shapes of antlered stags peacefully grazing under the golden and russet leaves of majestic acers, you feel transported back in time, or as if you are a character in a Renaissance painting.
Autumn in Richmond Park, London © Caroline Castle/ Unsplash
The southwest of Greater London offers other seasonal foliage treats, such as the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew, and Sion Park, with its stunning arboretum and parkland, grasslands and washlands teaming with wildlife.
Getting there
Check out my post on how to get to London by train from Europe. Once in London, you can get to Richmond Park by train and metro (District Line) from the centre of London.
Autumn in Paris: Jardin des Tuileries
This most central of Parisian parks, bordered by Place de La Concorde, Rue de Rivoli and the Seine, is nevertheless a triumph of foliage.
Autumn in Paris is truly special. I remember a delightful lunch of walnut and roquefort salad in a kiosk under yellowing leaves, with a distant view of the Seine and autumnal light all around. Magical.
A detail of the Jardin des Tuileries © Santiago Yanez/ Unsplash
If you love history, the Jardin des Tuileries used to be the grounds of a long-gone royal palace. Before you, the likes of Napoleon, Louis XIV and Catherine de Medici admired the turning of seasons in these beautiful grounds.
Getting there
Check out my post on how to get to Paris by train from Europe. Once in Paris, whichever station you have come from, you can get to Les Tuileries by RER train and metro.
Autumn in Madrid: El Retiro Park
This historic park which used to belong to the Spanish king is a 15-minute walk from Atocha station. If you are changing trains in Madrid and you only have a couple of hours, you can spend them discovering El Retiro!
El Retiro Park, © Carmen Dominguez/ Unsplash
Parque El Retiro is a green oasis in the city centre, and a magical place with a boating lake, elegant fountains, a rose garden, exotic plants. Together with the nearby tree-lined Paseo del Prado it is a UNESCO World Heritage site!
I love a stroll through El Retiro at any time of the year, even on a cold winter day, but the autumn and spring palettes bring out its best!
Getting there
There is now a high-speed connection between Paris and Barcelona which takes under 7 hours and stops in Lyon. Madrid to Barcelona takes another 3 hours. It is a long train journey but the south of France to Catalunya stretches are so beautiful you will not mind!
Englischer Garten, Munich
The Octoberfest is not the only reason to head to Munich in autumn. The Englischer Garten is one of my favourite sights in Munich, beautiful in all seasons but magical in autumn.
Surfing on the Eisbach © Vyctoria Silva/ Unsplash
Walk along the Eisbach and watch the surfers catch a wave, paddle board on the Kleinhesseloher lake, relax in the beer garden by the Chinese pagoda, while the leaves turn to gold around you.
The southern part, closer to the city centre, tends to be relatively busy, but if you head to the northern part you will be transported to the countryside, with horse trails and sheep roaming among the meadows.
Getting there
You can get to the Englischer Garten by metro from Munich's Hauptbahnhof (Central Station). You can get to Munich by train from many European cities. Check out my post.
The canals of Bruges
The copper hue of many of Bruges' buildings is a perfect match for golden and russet leaves of the trees lining the canals. The water of the canals takes on a glorious 'Old Masters' tinge in the glorious autumn light. A boat tour is a wonderful way to enjoy the magic of the season, as is a walk up and down the bridges and canals
Autumn in Bruges © Fuji Nakama/ Unsplash
Bruges has beautiful parks too, for example, the picturesque Minnewaterpark, an oasis of trees and walking parks along the romantic Minnewater (Lake of Love).
Getting there
Bruges is one hour by train from Brussels. Check out my post on how to get to Brussels by train from Europe.
2. Best regions for foliage
If you venture away from city centres, you are likely to need a bit more than a long weekend, although a lot depends on the distance for road trips and, in the case of train trips, on the availability of direct services.
No matter how you choose to travel, you will find incredible 'foliage' in some of Europe's most celebrated winter and summer regions, and you are likely to have the place almost to yourself!
Here are 5 firm favourites:
Autumn in Bavaria
This beautiful part of Germany, brimming with forests and lakes, is incredible in autumn. The foliage of the mountains surrounding Neuschwanstein Castle and nearby Füssen is rightly famous.
Neuschwanstein © Jewek Gnos/ Unsplash
Another fantastic destination is the BerchtesgadenerLand, the area of Königsee, Germany's most famous Alpine lake. The weather may be cold and crisp in Neuschwanstein and around Königsee, but the autumn sky is often blue and the forests (a blend of alpine ever-green and deciduous species) are a painter's palette.
The northeast of Bavaria is also spectacular I love the university town of Würzburg, straddling the Main river and surrounded by vineyards.
Getting there
Bavaria has a great train network. Get to Munich from wherever you are in Europe. You can then travel around on regional trains with the Deutschland Ticket.
You can also drive there easily from Italy, France, Austria, Switzerland, the Czech Republic, Belgium and the Netherlands.
Autumn in the Champagne region
I have been lucky enough to visit the Champagne region in all seasons, but the grape harvest season is magical. The energy that will go into the bubbles fills the air. As for when the harvest is over, there is something meditative and beautiful about the rolling hills when the leaves dry up on the trees and vines, painting them gold and russet.
Vineyards in Aÿ, Champagne © PJDC/ Unsplash
While most trees will be leafless by then, the colours of the hills are fantastic even in December and January.
My post about my recent stay between Reims and Epernay shows how it can be done, even if you only have a long weekend.
If you have a week, you can spend a couple of days exploring Reims and a couple of others exploring the delightful villages in La Montagne de Reims, between Reims and Epernay, where most Premier Cru and Grand Cru is grown.
You could also visit the less visited but wonderful Aube champagne growing area, and the city of Troyes, with its medieval centre.
Getting there
The SNCF network will take you to the main centres (Reims and Epernay) and the largest villages. You will likely change in Paris or Strasbourg. Check out my post on how to get to Paris by train for some ideas.
You can also drive there easily from The UK, Belgium, the Netherlands, Luxembourg, Switzerland, Austria, northern Italy, and Germany.
Autumn in the Dolomites
I have a soft spot for the Dolomites since I was a child. The pink shade of these mountains' rockface is magical in autumn when the rosy peaks tower over golden forests of alpine larch.
Lake Braies in autumn © Paul Pastourmatzis/Unsplash
It is hard to pick a valley above others. The Dolomites are all wonders of nature. Some reflect their pink shade into lake waters, or crown plateaux; they are crisscrossed by riivers and streams. The human touch adds to the sense of wonder; some peaks are watched over by mighty clifftop castles, and others are flanked by colourful vineyards - this area is a wine-lover paradise too -, and even incredible castles!
There are plenty of beautiful alpine villages, each with its magic. If you prefer to base yourself in a town, Bressanone (Brixen in German) and Merano are wonderful options - historical gems and surrounded by incredible nature.
If you have a week you can base yourself in two valleys, and move around with the impressive local transport system. In South Tyrol, if you stay more than 3 nights some valleys and resorts offer you a visitor card which includes free transport on the local trains and buses.
And if you have a car, autumn is the perfect time to go anywhere in the Dolomites, as you'll find parking and the mountain roads won't be busy.
Getting there
The Trenitalia network will take you to the main centres (Bolzano and Trento) and the largest villages and towns. The best entry points for getting there by train from across the Alps are Munich and Milano.
You can also drive there easily from Belgium, the Netherlands, France, Luxembourg, Switzerland, Austria, and Germany.
Autumn in the Moselle region
Castles, vineyards, and a spell-binding river. Starting from Koblenz, a delightful city founded by the Romans as Confluentia, the 'confluence'. of the Rhine and Moselle rivers, you can follow the vine-clad course of the Moselle.
The rolling hills are dotted with castles such as the iconic Burg Eltz. Villages such as Cochem and Moselkern are delightful, and the mesmerising bend in the Moselle at Bremm is simply unforgettable.
Autumn arrives at Burg Eltz © Joshua Kettle/ Unsplash
If you are feeling adventurous, a great cycling path runs along the river, so you can bring your bicycle or rent one. It won't be too hot and the delightful white wines and local food will keep you going.
The bend in the Moselle © Alps2Coast
Once you arrive, consider a train ride on the Moselle Line between Koblenz and Trier. It is one of Germany's most scenic train rides.
Getting there
You can easily get to Koblenz with Deutsche Bahn, and then visit the area on local trains (don't forget your Deutschland ticket!) or rent a car there.
You can also drive there easily from Belgium, France, the UK, the Netherlands, Luxembourg, Switzerland, and Austria.
Autumn in Switzerland
Yes, it sounds a bit generic. But Switzerland as a whole is a foliage paradise. The very helpful Swiss tourist board even has a map of foliage in Switzerland. so you can time your visit to perfection!
You will be spoilt for choice and pretty much every canton boasts incredible sights, from alpine larch to deciduous forests by the main lakes to vineyards in the mildest areas.
Autumn in Switzerland can be magically mist, especially when you are near large bodies of water like Lake Lucerne and the Rhine waterfalls. But if, like me, you find fog romantic, it just adds to its magic.
Autumn on the mountains around Lake Lucerne © Seb Mooze/Unsplash
Amongst the season highlights I would rank:
the UNESCO Heritage wine-growing area of Lavaux - between Lausanne and Montreux -
the thundering Rhine falls
the Valais (the sunniest region of Switzerland)
the Lake Lucerne area, surrounded by majestic mountains perfect for hiking such as Mount Pilatus for one of the most magnificent views of Switzerland, or the gentler Mount Rigi.
Getting there
You can drive to Switzerland easily from Belgium, France, the UK, the Netherlands, Luxembourg, Switzerland, and Austria.
Switzerland's excellent rail network make a train holiday worthwhile. The Swiss Railways (SBB) highlights a number of Panorama trips, train journeys amongst some of the most amazing landscapes of Switzerland.
3. Planning your journeys
Will you travel by train? If you intend to stay more than a couple of days, RailEurope is probably the best site to use as it allows you to buy train travel passes rather than just one-way or return journeys.
Alternatively, Trainline is always a reliable option.
Travelling by car? Check your insurance as you may need to upgrade your cover. to take your car abroad.
If you are staying for more than a few days and have a dog, you can take them with you. Here is a post where I share my experience of taking a dog from the UK to Europe (and through Europe) and my tips.
4. The Europe autumn rail and road trip series continues
The second instalment of my mini-series on autumn rail and road trips continues next week. I will feature some destinations where you can appreciate the abundance of Europe's autumnal foodie delights
It is time to embracer 'the season of mists and mellow fruitfulness,' as the poet John Keats beautifully put it!
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