The Old Town and the Old Bridge © Mateo Krossler/Unsplash
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The many attractions of Heidelberg
Heidelberg is a mid-size town, but its compact city centre and surroundings offers so much to the visitor.
The city has a rich and complex history, elegant and distinctive architecture, and is renowned through Germany and beyond for its vibrant student life - it is home to Germany's oldest university towns.
It also boasts a magnificent setting, straddling the blue waters of the Neckar River - in itself a great attraction, with its banks dotted by hillside castles and vineyards.
If all this is not enough, Heildelberg's celebrated Christmas market makes it a perfect winter getaway.
A Brief History of Heidelberg
After humble beginnings as a Celtic settlement and a Roman castrum, Heidelberg flourished in the Middle Ages. First, it became the residence of the Palatinate Electors, then in 1381 the seat of Germany's oldest university.
The Heidelberg Castle, a majestic ruin perched atop a hill overlooking the city, stands as a testament to this era. In town, the University Library, with its prestigious collection of medieval manuscripts, shows the cultural importance of Heidelberg in those days.
In the following centuries, the struggle for religious freedom and political power between Lutherans and Catholics, and the vicissitudes of its ruing family, saw Heidelberg change hands a few times. The city was devastated during the Thirty Years' War, and then was invaded by the French - Louis XIv claimed a dynastic right over it. It was during this invasion that the castle was blown up, becoming the majestic ruin we can visit today.
Heidelberg regained its prominence in the 19th century. The 20th century saw both the darkest moments of Heidelberg's history, which became a Nazi party stronghold, and a beautiful tale of salvation by culture. The Allied - who intentionally did not bomb Heidelberg and other important German university cities - entered into a negotiation with the Nazi burgmaster and persuaded him to surrender the city and retreat, so that the centre could be spared the ravages of war. It is thanks to this piece of enlightenment that we can still visit the old centre of Heidelberg today.
10 reasons to visit Heidelberg
1. Heidelberg's Old Town (Altstadt)
Heidelberg's Altstadt feels different to other German Old Towns. You will not find half-timbered houses and the town does not have a medieval vibe There is a historical reason - the destruction that Heildeberg suffered in the 17th century's Thirty Years War, But the city was reconstructed, and elegant pastel-coloured houses from the 17th to the 19th century flank the cobblestone streets and many squares of this elegant and vibrant city. The town is also still framed by ancient and picturesque gateways.
The Haupstrasse, the main street of Heidelberg, connects Bismarckplatz with one of the gateways , the 18th-century Karlstor.
The little alleyways to the sides,w which often lead to delightful corners and little squares, are particularly lovely during the Advent, when the Christmas market lighthing comes on!
Marzgasse during Advent © Alps2Coast
2. Karl Theodor Bridge (Alte Brücke)
Adorned with statues of saints and straddling the Neckar river, the historic Alte Brücke (Old Bridge) also known as Karl Theodor Bridge adorned, is Heidelberg's symbol.
The Alte Brücke bridge offers some of Heidelberg's most panoramic views of the city and the castle. As you would expect, it is closed to cars, and pedestrians and cyclists alike stop to take photos of the beautiful cityscape, framed by the hills and the castle, and the blue waters of the Neckar
The bridge connects the Altstadt with Neuenheim on the opposite bank, where you can walk the gorgeous hills along the PhilosophenWeg.
The Old Town and the Old Bridge © Maria Jorge Lopez/Unsplash
On the Altstadt side of the bridge, you will find Heidelberg's most iconic gateway, the Bruckentor (Bridge Gate)
3. Corn Square (Kornmarkt)
Heidelberg has many gorgeous squares that whish you back in time, but Kornmarkt (Corn Market Square) is particularly picturesque, with a fountain in the middle, typical Heidelberg pastel-coloured houses, and the castle rising in the background, like a prop on a theatre stage.
The stunning Kornmarkt © Jahanzeb Ahsan/Unsplash
4. Heidelberg Castle (Heidelberger Schloss)
You need to visit appreciate how imposing and Intimidating Heidelberger Schloss must have been before French troops and the force of nature (it was struck by lightning twice!) turned it into a ruin.
Its ramparts cling on to the rock and soil high above Heidelberg, as if they had been the work of giants..
You can walk to the castle from the city centre, or catch a cable car. I recommend walking. It will allow you to appreciate its size and might. It is quite a steep climb - there are steps - and a great way to work up an appetite.
You will also be rewarded by the views from the top of the hill, which are absolutely magnificent. We climbed on a frosty December morning and it was cold but spectacular. Initially, it was surrounded in mist and you could barely see the river and the city. But then the sun dispelled the humidity and the hole of Heidelberg appeared before our eyes.
The formal gardens are also worth exploring.
The view from the castle, winter morning © Alps2Coast
If you have time, do visit the interior. The ticket includes entry to the Pharmacy Museum and to the castle basement, where you can admire the world’s biggest Barrel of Wine!
The Barrel © Harm/Pixabay
5. German Pharmacy Museum (Deutsches Apotheken-Museum)
If you are fascinated by the healing powers of plants and minerals, or by good mystery novels with poison involved, you will love the German Museum of Pharmacy, included in the Castle ticket.
You will learn unique facts about how ailments where cured throughout the centuries, and appreciate the beautiful tools, equipment and furniture used in the making and storing of medecines before the industrial age.
The start of the Philosopherweg © Roman Kraft/Unsplash
6. Market Square (Marktplatz)
Heidelberg's Market Square (Marktplatz) is not only extremely pretty, it is also still on the same site since the city was founded in the middle ages. A literal piece of history!
In winter, it is one of the venues where the Christmas markets is held.
MarktPlatz © Herbert2512/Pixabay
7. Heidelberg University
Founded in 1386, Heidelberg is Germany's oldest university. In its classrooms studied an impressive number of noble prizes, German Chancellors, and many of the most famous German intellectuals (classical composer Robert Schumann, poet Holderlin, philosophers Ludwig Feuerbach and Hannah Ahrendt, the inventor of the periodic table Dmitri Mendeleev, the theorist of the continental drift Alfred Wegener, who discovered the continental drift, as well as political theorist Hannah Arendt, political scientist Carl Joachim Friedrich, and sociologists Karl Mannheim, Robert E. Park and Talcott Parsons.
Teachers included philosophers Georg Wilhelm Friedrich Hegel, Hans-Georg Gadamer, and Jürgen Habermas. I think you are beginning to understand why this town the need for a Philosophers' Way!
Not everyone was a model student in Heidelberg, and for those who breached the rules there was a dedicated place of punishment - the university prison (Studentkarzer!
The student prison © Modi74/Pixabay
Students were incarcerated for such transgressions as night-time carousing or other offences against the public order. Remarkably, for its first 500 hundred years the university enjoyed autonomous jurisdiction over its students.
The university gives Heidelberg its vibrancy and energy, and you can appreciate that just wandering around the town, entering the coffee shops and beer houses. But the University Library is something truly special, especially if you are into German literature or fascinated by illuminated manuscripts.
The Codex Manesse, the most famous and comprehensive collection of medieval German lyric poetry, is preserved there. Learning its history, and admiring some of of its stunning imagery, is going to be one of the highlights of your visit. The entrance is free, so you have no excuses!
The Manesse Codex in Heidelberg's University Library © George Buzin/Wikipedia
7. The Neckar River
Germany has many beautiful rivers, but the colour of the Neckar in Heidelberg is truly special, a deep blue.
Don't limit your visit to the Altstadt, make the most of the Neckar by walking along it on the opposite (Neuenheim) side, iss great for admiring the Altstadt.
If you have time, the Neckar valley is a wonderful area to explore, and the stretch around Heildelberg is dotted with vineyards and castle ruins.
Both boat and cycle tours are widely available, or you can just rent a bike and explore on your own.
The Neckar © Fatemeh Alzadeh/Unsplash
8. The Philosopher's Walk (Philosophenweg)
This scenic trail along the hills overlooking the city is one of the best experiences Heidelberg can offer. It owes its name to the university philosophers, who enjoyed a walk while debating the meaning of life - or wanted to admire the view surreptitiously,
The Philosopher's Way overlooks the Neckar from the opposite bank to the Old Town, so it offers magnificent views. The hills are south-facing and boast a warm micro-climate -the locals liken it to Tuscany. Plants that would not survive in the north-facing castle gardens thrive there, and everything blooms weeks earlier than down in the Neckar valley.
The start of the Philosopherweg © Christian Lue/Unsplash
A view from the Philosopherweg © Alps2Coast
The Philosophenweg intersects with the Schlangenweg (Serpentine Path), a walkway that cuts steeply through terraced vineyards until it reaches the woods. The Schalngewerg also offers terrific views of Heidelberg.
9. The Christmas Market (Heidelberger Weihnacht
Heidelberg's Christmas Market (Heidelberger Weihnachtsmarkt) is one of Germany's most loved and visited.
Students and their families, the relatives of soldiers from nearby military bases, and many tourists looking for that quintessential German Christmas Market experience will flock to Heidelberg. Nevertheless, the market remains authentic and magical.
A typical evening at the Christmas market © Alps2Coast
I spent a couple of days there, and that gave me the opportunity to experience it at daytime as well, which I feel is worth it, especially on a crisp but bright winter day!
The main market sites are the atmospheric Universitätsplatz (University Square), the Kornmarkt , with Illuminated fir trees and illuminated pointed tents, and the Marktplatz, with its smaller replica of the barrel in Heidelberg Castle. Inside the barrel, there is a room above the sales booth with a wonderful view of the box overlooking the market.
TDaytime at the Christmas market © Alps2Coast
10. Have a meal in a historic tavern or brewhouse
No visit to Heidelberg is complete without a visit to one of the historic taverns that dot the Altstadt. Some of them have seen centuries-worth of students and historical figures walking through their doors, and they are great places to experience classic hearty German food!
A well-loved local (recommended to me by a friend who studied in Heidelberg) is Vetter.
The tavern is a Brauhaus, which means it has an onsite brewery, so the beer could not be fresher! Food was lovely and abundant, as is typical of Germany) and we were lucky to get a table without a reservation,
Vetter's cosy interior, with brewing coppers in full sight typical © Alps2Coast
How to get there
How to get to Heidelberg by train
Heidelberg is well connected with Frankfurt (1h25 minutes away). That makes it easy to visit from Amsterdam (5h30), Paris (under 4 hours), Luxembourg (3h30), Brussels (4h50), Zurich (under 4 hours), Geneva (5h30, Lyon (5h30)),
Travelling from London takes longer and requires two changes (in Paris plus either Karlsruhe or Mannheim).
For planning and booking, check Trainline or RailEurope.
How to get to Heidelberg by car
We drove from the UK because we had our dog with us.
Heidelberg is 3 hours from Metz (which in turns is 5 hours from Calais, So, we got to see one of France's most wonderful Christmas markets and Heidelberg on the same trip. It takes about the same time to get there from Dusseldorf, Munich and Amsterdam,
The drive from Brussels and Frankfurt is about 3 hours; from Zurich 4 hours, from Geneva 5 hours.
Heidelberg is a must-see German city
I had heard so much about Heidelberg from a friend who studied there, so my expectations were very high. I was no disappointed.
The city is firmly on the tourist map, but it is still a working (and studying) city, and this gives it a vibrancy that you often do not find in places that only live off visitors.
We visited on the last weekend before Christmas, which is high season because of the Christmas markets, and even though it was busy it did not feel overcrowded.
I also loved that all of Heidelberg's main attractions are walking distance, and the very German proximity of nature to the attractions of the city centre.
Speaking of nature, the surroundings have so much to offer and I would love to go back and take my time driving through the Neckar Valley..
Great food, great people, beautiful river, fascinating history, and great sites!
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